Famiglia Pasqua 2015 Amarone Della Valpolicella Ranks Highly in a Difficult Year for Winemakers by Philip S. Kampe

Having attended three Anteprima Amarone tastings of Valpolicella wines in Verona (Italy), I was primed for judging the new vintages, normally 100=150 producers. 2014 was an exceptional year, yet, according to the vineyards, 2015 would not be the same. I was told that the winemakers who produced a 2015 vintage with poor weather and farming would shine, just because of their perseverance.

I now can attest to that fact-the 2015 Valpolicella from Famiglia Pasqua reaches heights for a year of uncertainty. If I didn’t know about the setbacks, I would have scored the wine differently, but, knowing the obstacles, there is no doubt that Famiglia Pasqua’s 2015 Amarone would have stood out in any given year.

Several years ago I visited Famiglia Pasqua. No invitation, just my desire to meet the winemaker and see the facility. They obliged, showed me their operation and actually brought me to a local restaurant for lunch, where we sampled more wines after tasting twenty or so at their facility.

Obviously, they won me over.

During this pandemic, with exchange rates in our favor, wouldn’t it be nice to purchase a special bottle of wine? At under $40 a bottle, this should be a possibility.

The wine is deep in color, with an intense bouquet of fennel, white pepper, dark cocoa and blackcurrant. The palate is overwhelmed with a contrast of serrano chiles and raspberry jelly. Soft tannins exist, but, paired with the appropriate food, balance out.

Famiglia Pasqua sources their grapes for the Valpolicella blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone and Negrara. The grapes dry in wooden crates for five months, where their concentration increases by a third. The grapes are then pressed and fermented for a month, then are racked before being placed in oak barrels for up to twenty months.

The result is a wine that is full bodied, savory and rich, with silky tannins that leads to a long lasting finish. Its doubtful that anyone would complain about the 15% alcohol in this stellar, bargain priced Amarone.

Its destined for your Coronavirus dinner table, and if not, mine.

Wines like this Amarone aren’t released until four years after the vintage date. These wines age very well and can be drunk immediately, but, in many cases aging is desirable. With the Coronavirus as part of our reality, I opt to drink this wine as soon as possible.

Philip S. Kampe
philip.kampe@thewinehub.com

The Valpolicella World As Seen by Olga Bussinello by Philip S. Kampe

Imagine the responsibilities of being the director of the Consortium for the Tutelage of Valpolicella Wines. Your responsibility is to be the voice of a region that has 19 municipalities, 114 companies, 2500 acres and produces 60 million bottles of wine.

                                                             Olga Bussinello

To be the voice of the winemakers, bottlers and producers of the region, only a dedicated person can take on the job effectively and live the life of Valpolicella as a lifestyle, day in and day out.

The person that lives and dreams the Valpolicella lifestyle is and has been for many years is Olga Bussinello, a woman whose blood is made up of the classic Valpolicella grape blend.

Her dedication to the Consorzio is unmatched.

Through the years I have seen the evolution of Olga Bussinello.

At my most recent encounter, her leadership and knowledge took center stage at the “Sustainable Winegrowing Summit 2018” in Verona, as well as her guidance with the release of the 2014 vintage at Anteprima Amarone.

Olga stressed the mantra, “RRR-Reduce, Respect, Retrench” in regard to the environmental sustainability and wealth of the land at the sustainable conference. She said that sustainability is the future communication for our wine and to communicate our DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) is another challenge for her and the 2347 grape growers, 7 cooperatives and 213 wine companies in Valpolicella,

Sales of Valpolicella wines are broken down in this order;
Valpolicella Ripasso DOC 45%
Valpolicella DOC 32%
Amarone DOC 22%

Olga elaborated on the 2017 harvest.
It was a good harvest-no hail, but, a lack of rain in both the spring and summer, which reduces the quantity of the grapes. Fortunately, analysis of the grapes is very positive. The 2017 batch has more sugar in the grape (higher alcohol) and more reservations, polyphenols and glycerin.

The wines that comprise Valpolicella generally have soft tannins, are well balanced and are very round on the palate. The majority of grapes used to produce Valpolicella are always an indigenous blend and are grown in three regions and thirteen valleys, each with a unique microclimate and soils ranging from limestone to volcanic.

Sounds like a lot going on , to you and me, in this region., but, with the leadership of Olga Bussinello there is nothing to worry about.

Look for the newest release, the 2014 Amarone DOC in your local wine shop, as well as the Valpolicella Ripasso DOC and the Valpolicella DOC.

After sampling any of these fine wines, you will understand why Olga Bussinello loves her job.

Philip S. Kampe
philipkampe@thewinehub.com

'Valpolicella receives 'Ethical Vineyard' Certification by Philip S. Kampe

                 
           

                            Olga Bussinello, Director of the Valpolicella Consortium




      

                         Christian Marchesini, Chairman of the Valpolicella consortium

We all love Valpolicella.

Since I was a kid, my parents boasted to their friends that their favorite wine was Valpolicella. They drank Valpolicella, not just for special occasions, but, for all occasions. In those days, the choice was somewhat limited versus today's crowded market.

Maybe my parents were on to something. As the years have progressed, the regard for Valpolicella has only grown. When the word, 'Amarone' is mentioned, everyone takes a pause in anticipation of sampling one of the world's most versatile wines.

Since my parents early Valpolicella days, the importance of authenticity for the consumer is important. To address that issue, the Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella has adopted the 'RRR' certification process, a mark on the bottle will distinguish the authenticity of the bottles. 'RRR' stands for the 'Reduce Respect Retrench' project that certifies 'ethical vineyards'. What this means is that the vineyards receive certification after five years of work practicing sustainable vine growing and wine producing.

According to Olga Bussinello, Director of the Valpolicella Consortium, ' The Reduce Respect Retrench (RRR) certification was a necessary change to foster its spread even more and to reward the virtuous viticulturists who have followed the process in its pilot phase. This is the first certification of an area with an appellation 'startup' in Italy, shared and achieved with the support of local towns, partners in the project, which include 73% of the vineyard surface area in the Valpolicella appellation. Certifying an area entails understanding the landscape and that of the ecosystem, from resource management to safeguarding biodiversity, to the protection of a territory where professional viticulture and urbanization are side-by-side--which is just one chapter in the process.'

Christian Marchesini, Chairman of the consortium, adds to the conversation, by pointing out that, ' Consumers all over the western world demand even safer, higher quality and socially sustainable products.  A territory like Valpolicella, which has outstanding viticulture and tends to export 75% of its wines, cannot gloss over features like this, which affect the value of the bottle of wine. We are certain that the market in the United States , the main country we send Valpolicella to, will be happy will be happy to receive bottles with our new sustainable area mark on them.'

Valpolicella Facts:
61.8 Million Bottles Produced
$550 Million in sales
75% of bottles exported
2,347 grape growers
7 cooperatives
213 wine companies
275 bottlers
97% of grapes used are indigenous varieties

The grape breakdow:
70.4% Corvina grape
21.1% Rondinella grape
5.5% other varieties

Worldwide Sales:
45.3% Valpolicella Ripasso DOC
32.3% Valpolicella DOC
21.9% Amarone DOCG

The U.S, Valpolicella Market Sales:
21% Valpolicella Ripasso DOC
14% Valpolicella DOC
10% Amarone DOCG

The Valpolicella region is located north of Verona. It borders Lake Garda to the west and is protected by the Lessini Mountain range to the east and the north. The Verona foothills, known as the eastern Alps, are to the south.

Most of the wines under the Valpolicella DOC are red, using mostly indigenous grapes, as mentioned earlier.
Ripasso is the most popular style.

Developed in the late 1980's and bottles first by Masi,  the Ripasso style emerged. The technique involves using the pomace of leftover grape skins or using partially dried grapes and seeds from the Amarone fermentation and adding the remains during the Ripasso's extended maceration. This tends to boost the remaining yeast by adding better body, higher alcohol levels and smoothing the tannins, glycerine and some phenolic compounds

Much more in-depth information can be found at the Consorzio Per La Tutela website:
www.consorziovalpolicella.it 

Philip S. Kampe
philip.kampe@thewinehub.com 



             

                                                      Philip S. Kampe