I love this time of the year – spending time with family and friends, the smell of Roast Turkey wafting from the kitchen, helping friends harvest their local vineyards, and the knowledge that in about a year, those grapes you helped harvest are going to be a delicious bottle of wine.
This year, I was helping my friends at Lacey Estates Vineyard & Winery harvest their Chardonnay. Each year it is different – my first year was Pinot Noir, last year was Baco Noir, this year it was a white grape. Just before we started picking early on a Saturday morning in October, I decided I should update my Facebook status to “Picking Chardonnay at Lacey Estates today”. Within an hour of posting that, I was receiving comments on my status like “And great Chard it will be!!” and “Excellent, always nice to open a bottle of wine that you know you had a hand in making.” Honestly, I could not agree more with these two statements. I have already tried Lacey Estates inaugural vintage of Chardonnay and, not being a major Chardonnay fan, I can unequivocally say that it is one of the best Ontario Chardonnay’s I have had in a very long time. As for the second comment, this is what I said, “Most definitely. I was thinking yesterday what a sense of pride winemakers must have when they finally have a chance to try the final product.” In fact, during the whole picking process – which is back breaking work – someone said to me that when it is in the bottle it all feels worth it.”’
With all of the hard work going on in the vineyards at this time of the year, it is very easy to think with longing towards the end of the day and the wonderful meal set to take place at the end of the day. You know, in a way, this is one advantage that – I think – Canadians have over Americans. All of the wine producing regions in North America are in full harvest mode but, for us lucky Canadians, this is also the time of year that we have Thanksgiving while the Americans have to wait a month and a half for their Thanksgiving feast. Canadian Thanksgiving weekend invariably falls half way through harvest time in Ontario so there is almost always a harvest party to enjoy if you are not joining a family celebration for the weekend but, in my family, we always have this wonderful, delicious moist Roast Turkey with all the fixings.
Now, I am sure a lot of you have heard the old adage when it comes to wine pairing – “White Meat, White Wine; Red Meat, Red Wine.” This is the one time of the year that I like to show people that you can completely break those rules and go bold with a Red wine with your Turkey or Ham. A number of years ago, a friend came to me to ask me for a recommendation on an Ontario wine for Thanksgiving dinner so I decided to give him my ultimate change of mind recommendation – Willow Springs Baco Cab Franc. Now, unfortunately, the winery does not make this as a blend every year but they do make each of these wines individually so buy a bottle of each, and blend it in a decanter together. This year, another wine friend of mine (and his) asked him what his wine choice was for a turkey. It turns out he still does the Baco Cab Franc blending…it must be a favourite with his family. So, with this in mind, let me share with you some of my favourite wines to pair with your next Turkey dinner.
Rosehall Run Vineyards 2006 Rosehall Vineyard Pinot Noir
$29.75 per bottle
https://www.rosehallrun.com/aspx_orderwine/orderpage.aspx
I speak from experience when I say this one pairs extremely well with Roast Turkey because we had this with our Turkey dinner on Sunday. Black cherry and mocha aromatics give way to a fruity, smoky palate. It has an almost barely there structure to the palate but with the slight tannins and grip to the finish, this wine will be ready to drink anywhere between 2009 and 2012.
33 Vines 2007 Cabernet Franc
$24 per bottle
info@33vines.com
Quite simply – a really great wine! I love the colour in the glass – it is an inky purple almost black colour. The aromas scream blackberry, jam, violets and currants with a slight hint of herbal at the end. Before you even take your first sip of this wine, it is screaming to be paired with chocolate…and who are we to deny a wine that?
The palate has a hint of spice at the tip of the tongue but only if you are trying it without any chocolate. It is mostly jammy but with a good base of currants and black fruit to bring complexity to the flavours. The great thing about this wine is that not only does it pair extremely well with Roast Turkey, it also is a wine that begs for chocolate so you could easily keep going with this wine through dessert.
Lacey Estate Vineyards & Winery 2007 Baco Noir
$20 per bottle
http://www.laceyestates.com
Baco Noir is one of those great Ontario wines that is over the top fruit in both the aromas and the palate. It is that fruity nature that makes it a perfect match with Roast Turkey and, especially, cranberry relish. Lacey Estate’s Baco Noir is currently sold out but it is definitely one that, year after year, will pair beautifully with Turkey or Ham plus all the fixings.
Cattail Creek Estate Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc
$18.00 per bottle
http://www.cattailcreek.ca/boutique.html
Cabernet Franc tends to have the fruitiest character of the Cabernet grapes – cherry, plum, black fruit all abound in typical Cabernet Francs and this wine has all three. In this particular version, they also mix and mingle with cigar, tobacco, vanilla and that oh so wonderful chocolate flavour to make this a truly complex wine. Out of all the red wines out there, this one would probably be the heartiest that I would pair with Turkey or Ham but if you do not want a hearty Chardonnay, this is an excellent choice for you.
Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery 2005 Baco Noir Reserve
$24.95 per bottle
http://www.henryofpelham.com/wines.php?sub_id=28
In the last two years you keep hearing how the 2007 vintage was absolutely outstanding for Ontario wines. Well, two years prior to that – the 2005 vintage – Ontario made a name for itself with red wines specifically. The intensely hot summer was great for the red grapes allowing them to have concentrated fruit flavours and aromas. Consequently, you have a wine here that is super fruity, has great structure to it (i.e. does not taste “wimpy”) and more than holds up to any kind of heavy meal like roasts tend to be.
Chateau des Charmes 2007 St David’s Bench Gamay Droit
$16.95 per bottle
http://www.chateaudescharmes.com/gifts/wine.php
Gamay Noir is the lightest tasting of red wines available in North America and the Gamay Droit clone is unique to Chateau des Charmes winery. Gamay is typically a very fruit forward wine, not at all heavy, and pairs well with a wide variety of food dishes. The major flavours and aromas are cherry and berry fruit but there are the added components of spices, pepper and tannins making this a very interesting wine.
Stoney Ridge Estate Winery 2006 Reserve Cabernet Franc
$17.95 per bottle
http://www.stoneyridge.com/our-wines/reserve-series/2006-reserve-cabernet-franc/
Like the other Cabernet Franc mentioned above, this wine has some major fruit components. A combination of cherry, cedar and bell pepper aromas with flavours of red berry fruit, vanilla and oak, this wine definitely has all the necessary components to pair well with either turkey or ham. This wine has the ability to age for another 4-5 years if you so desire.
Remember, if you have already had your Thanksgiving dinner, try some of these wines out the next time you have a big family dinner. You will be amazed at how well red wines go with white meat. Cheers,
Friday, October 16, 2009
Thursday, October 15, 2009
The positive taste of brett in wines and food matching
The line it is drawn, the curse it is cast. One of the controversies that emerged in the 1990s concerns an extremely common, but often glossed over, taste factor in wine called Brettanomyces; often shortened to “brett” in the parlance of winemakers.
Brett is basically one of the many natural species of yeast that begins to make its presence known in red wines after fermentation, while they are aging in the barrel. Although I have found few vintners anxious to discuss it, the winemaking community has long known that Brettanomyces, more than anything else, is largely responsible for the earthy, leathery qualities long associated almost exclusively with European wines, although it is by no means foreign to New World wines.
During all my years of California wine judging, in fact, picking out wines with subtle or excess brett has been as routine as picking out wines with notes of volatile acidity, oxidation, madeirization or hydrogen sulfides. Not too long ago, many wine writers and restaurant/retail professionals were still shamefully misrepresenting this attribute to consumers as aspects of terroir or climat – that is, resulting from unique environmental conditions of specific regions and vineyards – and would speak of it in reverent, and sometimes even mystical, terms.
The “glove leathery” nuances found in red Burgundy, the “sweaty saddle” common in Spanish reds and South-West French reds (like Ribera del Duero, Rioja, Madiran and Saint-Chinian), and even the handsome, leathery complexity common to many of Bordeaux’s grand crus: all of this is essentially the manifestation of a component that oenologists generally classify as a “spoilage” yeast. At worst -- when left uncontrolled in wineries (judicious use of sulfur dioxide is the most effective method of suppressing brett) – Brettanomyces laden wines begin to taste “mousy” or metallic, or else barnyardy and all-too-often, manure-like.
Brett is common to wines coming out of fairly new wine growing regions – like many cold climate grown New Zealand and Australia pinot noirs – where winemakers are just beginning to get a handle on their craft. Yet strong leather, even manure-like manifestations of brett are also common to fairly well established regions, among new and old wineries alike. Examples: cabernet sauvignons coming out of Chile (like the ultra-premium Errazuriz and Domus Aurea), Australia’s Barossa Valley (Torbreck, one of the better known of those producers), as well as California (from Robert Mondavi to Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars). Château Musar from Lebanon’s Bakaa Valley – one of the darlings of the British wine trade – is particularly rife with this character. Even more distressing is the fact that many of these high brett wines retail in the $50 to $100-plus range – as if having this stinky “European” taste qualifies for ultra-premium pricing!
In the nineties Brettanomyces became something of a controversy within winemaking circles when more and more New World producers began to supplement their technology with traditional, Old World methods of vinification: particularly things like natural yeast fermentation, minimal sulfuring and cellar intervention, and greater tolerance of high pH levels (the level of wine’s acidic strength) than previously accepted. In wine judgings, as a result, we would find higher incidents of brett in categories such as “small production pinot noir” (case productions of, say, 500 or less). The goal, of course, was to utilize European style handcrafting to achieve more intense, unbridled natural flavors, particularly when sourced from special vineyards. Letting the terroir, so to speak, speak more loudly in the glass.
I would often find these small batch wines to be very attractive, but many others the opposite – almost repulsive. Why would many vintners deliberately skirt the fine line between subtle and excess brett; between love and hate? My personal theory: because wine writers tend to have a higher tolerance of brett than ordinary consumers (who usually believe whatever writers tell them anyway). If wines that retain, say, French-like or “rubber boot” qualities garner higher ratings from certain well known writers, why not? Do the math: high scores + critical success = greater demand, higher prices and financial success.
This is why you might read about, say, a 2006 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste ($40-$80 current retail) that is rich, velvety, full of cigarbox and blackcurrant fruit, but also positively oozing with barnyard animal-like aromas and flavors. Yet all you read from Robert Parker (who gives it a 92) are words like “classic crème de cassis,” “pure personality,” and “beautiful density.” Jancis Robinson (who gives it 17.5 out of 20) chimes in with phraseology like “overlay of spice” and “all-over-the-palate experience.” But nary a word about the obvious brett. Why? Like I said, I think most of the better known wine writers either don’t smell it or just don’t care when they do. It’s bad enough (if you don’t enjoy the smell of barnyards in wine) that they’re swaying you by meaningless numerical scores; but when they don’t even mention it in the descriptions… don’t get me started!
Not all writers, of course. One of the more vociferous critics of brett when it occurs in California wines has been Ronn Wiegand, an influential MW/MS. One morning he told me, “As far as I’m concerned, Brettanomyces is a serious flaw that tends to blur grape and regional distinctions. I never really liked it in French wines, and I certainly don’t think it belongs in California wines.”
There has to be some irony to the fact that after many years of being compared unfavorably to French wines, California wines are being knocked when they taste too much like them. David Ramey (pictured, right), one of the California winemakers Wiegand admires most, once shared this perspective with me: “In my experience wines that are known to be made as naturally as possible, like France’s Beaucastel and Pichon-Lalande, are often found to taste ‘better.’ No question, Brettanomyces plays a part in these wines - so where’s the problem?” At the same time, however, Ramey makes it very clear that "it's not a wise commercial policy to make wines with brett for the American market, so we have a zero brett policy here at Ramey Wine Cellars, despite working with native yeasts, high pH's and bottling unfiltered -- the classical means of elevage include techniques that eliminate brett in one's cellar."
Tony Soter, one of the winemakers I admire most, and whose wines at Etude were never been accused of being French-like, takes a more tolerant stance: “This is a sad issue, because it takes all the mystery out of those great French wines that, frankly, I love.” As for his own wines, Soter admits, “I’ve played with Brettanoymyces, although at relatively low levels, because it does compliment a wine somewhat. The point, however, is that ultimately it should be wine drinkers, not writers, who should decide what they like, and whether brett in a wine is good or not.”
In one of his old newsletters (now compiled in his book, Inspiring Thirst), Kermit Lynch went so far as to say that the opposite of a "bretty" wine is the type of sterile, unnatural wine he has long decried, calling the nitpicking of wines with animal, underbrush, leather or even barnyard aromas an insiduous "Attack of the Brett Nerds." Lynch has plenty to beef about because knee-jerk reactions to brett are often confused with earthy yet enthralling manifestations of garrigue - in Southern French wines in particular, time honored distinguishing marks of terroir - with this spoilage yeast; which is easy to do because of sensory similarities (for example, simply rub a twig of fresh rosemary between your fingers, and you'll retain an animal-like smell on your fingers that is pungently organic, and most definitely not brett-related).
And in fact, besides Beaucastel and Pichon-Lalande there are many, many other wines of the world that are produced with subtle qualities of brett that amplify, and thus improve, natural fruit and other organic elements, adding up to magnificent expressions of terroir: for me, the mysteriously deep, dark Madiran by Château Lafitte-Teston immediately comes to mind; so does the massively scaled Domaine de la Granges de Peres from Languedoc, the spice-box scented Gigondas by Domaine du Cayron, the magnificently deep reservas of Spain’s Tinto Pesquera, the powerful yet pillowy textured Falesco Montiano by Italy’s ingenius Riccardo Cotarella, Antinori’s legendary Tignanello, and on the home front, Randall Grahm’s groundbreaking string of Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volants… the hits go on and on.
How does that song go? If loving you is wrong, I don’t want to be right… so maybe we need to take the bull by the horns, and talk about how we can match foods with the finer brett laced wines of the world, working with the yeast to come up with something even more exciting.
IDEAL FOOD MATCHES FOR BRETT NUANCED WINES WE HAVE LOVED
Not only is Brettanomyces a welcome complexity in many wines, its presence can make for some interesting food food matches. Some guidelines and experiences:
Some brett-laced wine and food matches we have known and loved:
Kermit Lynch, the original wine adventurer
(photo by Peter DaSilva, The New York Times)
Brett is basically one of the many natural species of yeast that begins to make its presence known in red wines after fermentation, while they are aging in the barrel. Although I have found few vintners anxious to discuss it, the winemaking community has long known that Brettanomyces, more than anything else, is largely responsible for the earthy, leathery qualities long associated almost exclusively with European wines, although it is by no means foreign to New World wines.
During all my years of California wine judging, in fact, picking out wines with subtle or excess brett has been as routine as picking out wines with notes of volatile acidity, oxidation, madeirization or hydrogen sulfides. Not too long ago, many wine writers and restaurant/retail professionals were still shamefully misrepresenting this attribute to consumers as aspects of terroir or climat – that is, resulting from unique environmental conditions of specific regions and vineyards – and would speak of it in reverent, and sometimes even mystical, terms.
The “glove leathery” nuances found in red Burgundy, the “sweaty saddle” common in Spanish reds and South-West French reds (like Ribera del Duero, Rioja, Madiran and Saint-Chinian), and even the handsome, leathery complexity common to many of Bordeaux’s grand crus: all of this is essentially the manifestation of a component that oenologists generally classify as a “spoilage” yeast. At worst -- when left uncontrolled in wineries (judicious use of sulfur dioxide is the most effective method of suppressing brett) – Brettanomyces laden wines begin to taste “mousy” or metallic, or else barnyardy and all-too-often, manure-like.
Brett is common to wines coming out of fairly new wine growing regions – like many cold climate grown New Zealand and Australia pinot noirs – where winemakers are just beginning to get a handle on their craft. Yet strong leather, even manure-like manifestations of brett are also common to fairly well established regions, among new and old wineries alike. Examples: cabernet sauvignons coming out of Chile (like the ultra-premium Errazuriz and Domus Aurea), Australia’s Barossa Valley (Torbreck, one of the better known of those producers), as well as California (from Robert Mondavi to Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars). Château Musar from Lebanon’s Bakaa Valley – one of the darlings of the British wine trade – is particularly rife with this character. Even more distressing is the fact that many of these high brett wines retail in the $50 to $100-plus range – as if having this stinky “European” taste qualifies for ultra-premium pricing!In the nineties Brettanomyces became something of a controversy within winemaking circles when more and more New World producers began to supplement their technology with traditional, Old World methods of vinification: particularly things like natural yeast fermentation, minimal sulfuring and cellar intervention, and greater tolerance of high pH levels (the level of wine’s acidic strength) than previously accepted. In wine judgings, as a result, we would find higher incidents of brett in categories such as “small production pinot noir” (case productions of, say, 500 or less). The goal, of course, was to utilize European style handcrafting to achieve more intense, unbridled natural flavors, particularly when sourced from special vineyards. Letting the terroir, so to speak, speak more loudly in the glass.
I would often find these small batch wines to be very attractive, but many others the opposite – almost repulsive. Why would many vintners deliberately skirt the fine line between subtle and excess brett; between love and hate? My personal theory: because wine writers tend to have a higher tolerance of brett than ordinary consumers (who usually believe whatever writers tell them anyway). If wines that retain, say, French-like or “rubber boot” qualities garner higher ratings from certain well known writers, why not? Do the math: high scores + critical success = greater demand, higher prices and financial success.
This is why you might read about, say, a 2006 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste ($40-$80 current retail) that is rich, velvety, full of cigarbox and blackcurrant fruit, but also positively oozing with barnyard animal-like aromas and flavors. Yet all you read from Robert Parker (who gives it a 92) are words like “classic crème de cassis,” “pure personality,” and “beautiful density.” Jancis Robinson (who gives it 17.5 out of 20) chimes in with phraseology like “overlay of spice” and “all-over-the-palate experience.” But nary a word about the obvious brett. Why? Like I said, I think most of the better known wine writers either don’t smell it or just don’t care when they do. It’s bad enough (if you don’t enjoy the smell of barnyards in wine) that they’re swaying you by meaningless numerical scores; but when they don’t even mention it in the descriptions… don’t get me started!Not all writers, of course. One of the more vociferous critics of brett when it occurs in California wines has been Ronn Wiegand, an influential MW/MS. One morning he told me, “As far as I’m concerned, Brettanomyces is a serious flaw that tends to blur grape and regional distinctions. I never really liked it in French wines, and I certainly don’t think it belongs in California wines.”
There has to be some irony to the fact that after many years of being compared unfavorably to French wines, California wines are being knocked when they taste too much like them. David Ramey (pictured, right), one of the California winemakers Wiegand admires most, once shared this perspective with me: “In my experience wines that are known to be made as naturally as possible, like France’s Beaucastel and Pichon-Lalande, are often found to taste ‘better.’ No question, Brettanomyces plays a part in these wines - so where’s the problem?” At the same time, however, Ramey makes it very clear that "it's not a wise commercial policy to make wines with brett for the American market, so we have a zero brett policy here at Ramey Wine Cellars, despite working with native yeasts, high pH's and bottling unfiltered -- the classical means of elevage include techniques that eliminate brett in one's cellar."Tony Soter, one of the winemakers I admire most, and whose wines at Etude were never been accused of being French-like, takes a more tolerant stance: “This is a sad issue, because it takes all the mystery out of those great French wines that, frankly, I love.” As for his own wines, Soter admits, “I’ve played with Brettanoymyces, although at relatively low levels, because it does compliment a wine somewhat. The point, however, is that ultimately it should be wine drinkers, not writers, who should decide what they like, and whether brett in a wine is good or not.”
In one of his old newsletters (now compiled in his book, Inspiring Thirst), Kermit Lynch went so far as to say that the opposite of a "bretty" wine is the type of sterile, unnatural wine he has long decried, calling the nitpicking of wines with animal, underbrush, leather or even barnyard aromas an insiduous "Attack of the Brett Nerds." Lynch has plenty to beef about because knee-jerk reactions to brett are often confused with earthy yet enthralling manifestations of garrigue - in Southern French wines in particular, time honored distinguishing marks of terroir - with this spoilage yeast; which is easy to do because of sensory similarities (for example, simply rub a twig of fresh rosemary between your fingers, and you'll retain an animal-like smell on your fingers that is pungently organic, and most definitely not brett-related).
And in fact, besides Beaucastel and Pichon-Lalande there are many, many other wines of the world that are produced with subtle qualities of brett that amplify, and thus improve, natural fruit and other organic elements, adding up to magnificent expressions of terroir: for me, the mysteriously deep, dark Madiran by Château Lafitte-Teston immediately comes to mind; so does the massively scaled Domaine de la Granges de Peres from Languedoc, the spice-box scented Gigondas by Domaine du Cayron, the magnificently deep reservas of Spain’s Tinto Pesquera, the powerful yet pillowy textured Falesco Montiano by Italy’s ingenius Riccardo Cotarella, Antinori’s legendary Tignanello, and on the home front, Randall Grahm’s groundbreaking string of Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volants… the hits go on and on.How does that song go? If loving you is wrong, I don’t want to be right… so maybe we need to take the bull by the horns, and talk about how we can match foods with the finer brett laced wines of the world, working with the yeast to come up with something even more exciting.
IDEAL FOOD MATCHES FOR BRETT NUANCED WINES WE HAVE LOVED
Not only is Brettanomyces a welcome complexity in many wines, its presence can make for some interesting food food matches. Some guidelines and experiences:
- First, there is probably nothing you can do from a culinary perspective with wines in which brett is way over-the-top – riddled with a pervasive aroma of leather to the detriment of fruitiness, or else a basically unpleasant, barnyardy stink. Excess brett – like excess alcohol, acid, volatile acidity, tannin, oak, or any other elements – will not make a dish taste better, and nothing you can do to a dish might make the wine taste better (and for you “breathers” out there: no amount of time in a decanter will rid a wine of stink either). Unbalanced wines of any sort always have a low percentage chance of working with food.
- However, wines with subtle brett qualities can be quite useful. I’ve enjoyed softer, moderately scaled reds with leather or even gamy undertones in seafood settings; particularly fish or shellfish with strong marine notes of earthy quality. Who wouldn’t, for instance, prefer a light, snappy sangiovese based red over any white wine with pasta and mussels in an herb scented tomato sauce? Earthy red Bandol is often served with bouillabaisse laced with saffron (one of the most complex earthen spices of all) to delicious effect, especially with dabs of garlicky aioli; and in the Bay Area, I’ve enjoyed some funky, small batch pinot noirs with The City’s many variations of earthy and saline cioppinos.
- For deeper, sturdier red wines (like cabernet sauvignon, syrah, or Southern French style blends) tinged with brett, gamy meats like venison and leg of lamb are no-brainers, and meaty birds like squab, pigeon, Muscovy duck and even goose are not a bad idea either. But you can play with lightly gamy notes in a wine with any meat, gamy or not, with the use of earthy ingredients such as wild mushrooms, organ meats, bone marrow, lardons or pancetta, homemade sausages, horseradish and fennel, root vegetables, earthy varieties of Chèvre, cumin and tumeric, and in more elegant settings, truffles (and truffle oil), foie gras, or with creative use of the trufflish Mexican delicacy, huitlacoche (corn smut, which I once enjoyed in a ravioli with crimini, spinach and achiote chili sauce).
- Use of pungent, fatty or chewy organ meats — like tripe (especially cut thick, as in meñudo), liver, kidneys, sweetbreads, tongue, beef tendons, and the rind, belly, feet, chitterlings, trotters and head meat of pork – are all of the right textural and aromatic “stuff” for earth toned wines.
- Just as use of fruit (fresh or dried) in dressings, finishing sauces, or condiments compliments a gamy meat, it goes a long ways towards brightening the fruit qualities of red wines with low key brett. Vegetables that are naturally sweet (like beets and yams) or slightly sweetened (squash and onions) can do the same.
Some brett-laced wine and food matches we have known and loved:
- In Berkeley, a succession of mildly gamy 20 year old reds (a Chave Hermitage, followed by a Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Domaine Tempier Bandol) with a potato casserole generously layered with black truffles
- At the Joel Palmer House in Dayton, Oregon, a pungent, essence-of-wild three-mushroom tart with a soft, fragrant, yet distinctly leather glovish Adelsheim Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
- In a South Australian wine country restaurant, a lamb’s brains in mustard sauce with a wildly earthy Rockford Basket Press Shiraz
- At Bay Wolf in Oakland, a ravioli of wild mushrooms and spinach in an aromatic porcini broth with a lush yet meaty-game nuanced Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
At Matsuhisa in Aspen, an ankimo (monkfish liver) paté with caviar and a bright strawberry, blackberry, pepper and leather laced Torbreck Juveniles (Barossa Valley grenache/shiraz/mataro)
- At home in the Islands, an oyster stuffed game hen in a ragout of giblets, onions and porcini with a leather-on-lace Allegrini La Grola Valpolicella
- In one of our Island restaurants, a lusty confit of duck, roasted garlic and offal in a white bean cassoulet with a mild but pungent, unsulfured, unfiltered, un-nothinged Morgon by Foillard
- In my most recent home in the Rockies, a simple cube steak pan roasted with alderwood smoked salt, cracked pepper and sweet-hot paprika – and finished with a smothering of shallots, mushrooms and red wine deglaze – with Spain’s Dehesa la Granja, brimming with sweet blackberry coated in leather and roasted meat
- Home again in the Rockies, a saddle sweat scented cumin laced ground bison chili served with Hebrew National dogs and Cheddar; finding a natural match with a virile, suede nuanced and textured Altos las Hormigas Malbec from Argentina
- One final home remedy – spinach pasta with chopped chorizo and sweet onions in classic, Italian herbed tomato sauce and generous shavings of earthy Pecorino, washed down with a zesty, leather wrapped cherry toned Peppoli Chianti Classico by Antinori
Kermit Lynch, the original wine adventurer(photo by Peter DaSilva, The New York Times)
A winery named Curtis
Nestled atop the hills, beginning the wine tasting trail that is in Santa Barbara County, is Curtis Winery. Their tasting room is a must-stop destination to get your tastebuds started before embarking on the windy path through all the great wineries in the area. Their specialties are Rhone style wines cultivated from the fantastic soils of the Santa Ynez Valley that is in Santa Barbara wine country. Rhone wines originate from the Rhone region in Southeastern France. The varietals produced there to make Rhone wines are typically blends of mouverdre, sryah, grenache and cinsault. Curtis nails these wines with excellent depth and varietal expression, specifically with the Heritage Series, which consists of a beautiful cuvee, blanc and rose wine.
The 2006 Curtis Hermitage Cuvee bursts out of the bottle with a huge bouquet. Spice in the nose from the syrah grape along with the rich, lush, ripe fruit of dark cherry and pomegranate add a long silky finish. Its complexity makes this wine a must-try wine for this year, a gift or great food pairing wine for lamb a roasted beef dish, delish!
The 2006 Heritage Rose is an equally complex blend of the same grapes. Mouvedre, cinsault, grenache and syrah lend themselves well to rounding out this wine into to a pleasurable drinking experience. With strawberries, pomegranate and citrus fruit, it has much more structure than normal for a rose, which shows itself in the finish. It is an excellent accompaniment with light dishes such as a spicy halibut or a parmesan crusted tilapia.
Now is the BEST time to visit, seeing as their Calypso Fest is happening this weekend, October 17th. It is a yearly celebration to stop and enjoy wine and food while Curtis has been busy during harvest time. More info can be found at
http://curtiswinery.com/crew_calypso.html
The assistant winemaker to Curtis Winery in the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barabara wine
country is Ernst Storm. Along with crafting fantastic Rhone style wines there, he has been building his own label called “Noble Storm. Ernst embodies the wines he creates from his own cultivated background, working and studying at such wineries as Amani in South Aftrica, before eventually moving from the Sierra foothills in California to find his niche in Santa Barbara.
The limited Sauvignon Blanc is just labeled “STORM”, a fantastic swallow of a citrusy, crisp
fruit in a excitably acidic wine. A California kiss of oak added but more pomelo, grapefruit with some lime zest that bursts on the palate like a soft New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Light and refreshing, this wine from Santa Barbara is hard to come by, but should be on the menu at every coastal seafood restaurant. Oysters, grilled fish, prawns, or even chicken pasta would be an excellent pair for this well-balanced white. And be sure to look for more varietals, like Pinot Noir or Syrah, under this label.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
AUSTRIAN REDS: THE NEXT BIG THING? by Philip S. Kampe
I recently attended a BLIND tasting of Austrian Red Wines led by Austrian wine export, Michael Thurner (Wine MBA) and hosted by Christian Kesberg of the Austrian Trade Commission. Mr. Thurner is the President of Austrian Fine Brands http://www.austriasfinebrands.com/ and presently resides in Singapore, with hopes of capturing the Asian audience with his extensive portfolio of Austrian wines.
Austrian white wines have been the talk of the trade, as of late, since 2003 when Austria introduced a new classification system similar to that of France and Italy. The system is called the DISTRICTUS AUSTRIA CONTROLLTUS or DAC. The new system simplifies the difficult, complicated system of the past. With the red and white signature caps on the bottles, Austrian whites have made great strides in placement in the American market. The reds have not, as of yet.
The blind tasting conclusively demonstrated that the red wines of Austria belong in our wine stores, as well as on our wine cellars. Imagine mixing in a 2004 Chateau Mouton Rothchild Pauillac; a 2004 Chateau Magaux Premier Grand Cru Classe ; a 2004 Chateau Lafleur Pomerol and a 2004 M. Chapoutier Le Pavillion Ermitage into the blind mix of Austrian reds. Michael Thurner's psychology worked, as the usual suspect wine writers from the New York City area
were prey to higher standards of reds set by Mr. Thurner. He dazzled our tastebuds with obscure Austrian reds that matched and often exceded their French counterparts. On most occasions the Austrian reds beat the French classics in taste, aroma and style. We were amazed at the results and now, have a belief in the Austrian reds, as the new wines of the future.
It has taken many years for a new red catagory of wine to appear. The Austrian reds have filled that need.
Austrian reds range from cool climate elegance to Super Austrian wines. There are four major red grapes in Austria:
ZWIEGELT ( the most abundant grape)
BLAUFRANKISCH ( possibly the best grape>spicy and tannic)
ST. LAURENT ( soft and herby for Pinot Noir)
BLAUER PORTUGIESER ( soft and used mainly for table wines that are drunk immediately)
These grapes produce some of the great wines of the world. If you cannot find Austrian reds in your local wine store, please ask your wine merchant to order these exciting wines.
This is a short list of Austrian reds that will introduce you to 'The Next Big Thing":
2006 Markowitsch Pinot Noir Reserve
2004 Johanneshof Reinisch Saint Laurent Holzpur (spicy red)
2004 Markowitsch M1 (Merlot)
2004 Weninger Verathina (super Austrian)
2004 Arachon T. FX.T. Evolution
For further infomation feel free to contact Ms. Stephanie Artner of the Austrian Trade Commission at:
212- 421-5250 or via e-mail at stephanie.artner@austriantrade.org
PHILIP S.KAMPE
philip.kampe@thewinehub.com
Austrian white wines have been the talk of the trade, as of late, since 2003 when Austria introduced a new classification system similar to that of France and Italy. The system is called the DISTRICTUS AUSTRIA CONTROLLTUS or DAC. The new system simplifies the difficult, complicated system of the past. With the red and white signature caps on the bottles, Austrian whites have made great strides in placement in the American market. The reds have not, as of yet.
The blind tasting conclusively demonstrated that the red wines of Austria belong in our wine stores, as well as on our wine cellars. Imagine mixing in a 2004 Chateau Mouton Rothchild Pauillac; a 2004 Chateau Magaux Premier Grand Cru Classe ; a 2004 Chateau Lafleur Pomerol and a 2004 M. Chapoutier Le Pavillion Ermitage into the blind mix of Austrian reds. Michael Thurner's psychology worked, as the usual suspect wine writers from the New York City area
were prey to higher standards of reds set by Mr. Thurner. He dazzled our tastebuds with obscure Austrian reds that matched and often exceded their French counterparts. On most occasions the Austrian reds beat the French classics in taste, aroma and style. We were amazed at the results and now, have a belief in the Austrian reds, as the new wines of the future.
It has taken many years for a new red catagory of wine to appear. The Austrian reds have filled that need.
Austrian reds range from cool climate elegance to Super Austrian wines. There are four major red grapes in Austria:
ZWIEGELT ( the most abundant grape)
BLAUFRANKISCH ( possibly the best grape>spicy and tannic)
ST. LAURENT ( soft and herby for Pinot Noir)
BLAUER PORTUGIESER ( soft and used mainly for table wines that are drunk immediately)
These grapes produce some of the great wines of the world. If you cannot find Austrian reds in your local wine store, please ask your wine merchant to order these exciting wines.
This is a short list of Austrian reds that will introduce you to 'The Next Big Thing":
2006 Markowitsch Pinot Noir Reserve
2004 Johanneshof Reinisch Saint Laurent Holzpur (spicy red)
2004 Markowitsch M1 (Merlot)
2004 Weninger Verathina (super Austrian)
2004 Arachon T. FX.T. Evolution
For further infomation feel free to contact Ms. Stephanie Artner of the Austrian Trade Commission at:
212- 421-5250 or via e-mail at stephanie.artner@austriantrade.org
PHILIP S.KAMPE
philip.kampe@thewinehub.com
Sunday, October 11, 2009
U.S. DRINKS CONFERENCE 2009...OCTOBER 13th & 14th NYC
On October 13th & 14th the U.S. DRINKS CONFERENCE will take place at the Helmsley Park Lane Hotel located at 36 Central Park South.
This year's exciting and necessary conference is for wine, beer and spirits executives with responsibility for the U.S. market. Strategies will be presented from leaders in the field, including, Mike Berkhoff (CEO of BevMax Corporation); Chris Adams (CEO of Sherry-Lehmann); Bill Earle (President of National Association of Beverage Importers); Serge Lozach (Managing Director SOPEXA USA); Leonardo LoCascio (Presiedent and CEO of Winebow) and William Slone ( CEO of Beverage Media Group), just to name a few.
Please go to www.USDrinksConference.com for a complete list of speakers, pricing and agenda.
The agenda is intriguing. Sessions covering topics that are critical to the industry include:
US Market Overview: Entry, Economics and Approaches; US Spirit, Wine and Beer Overview: Structure, Trends, and Consumer Behavior; How to Launch your Brand: Allocating Budgets and an Overview on Social Media Marketing; Panel Discussions including: What made these Brand Introductions Successful?; What's all of this talk about social media marketing?; How does a new Supplier develop a relationship with a Distributor?; How to enter the US Market? and Legal Do's,Don'ts and How To's.
This conference is a must for wine, beer and spirits executives with responsibility for US Markets, as well as those purchasing execs with export responsibility.
Case histories will be discussed with candid insights and lessons to be learned. The current market data and research US consumer trends will be discussed.
This promises to be a special event with insight from top professionals, shared, honestly with peers in the industry. Please go the website and look at the agenda and speakers. It will be worthwhile and may help shape your companies future.
PHILIP S. KAMPE
philip.kampe@thewinehub.com
This year's exciting and necessary conference is for wine, beer and spirits executives with responsibility for the U.S. market. Strategies will be presented from leaders in the field, including, Mike Berkhoff (CEO of BevMax Corporation); Chris Adams (CEO of Sherry-Lehmann); Bill Earle (President of National Association of Beverage Importers); Serge Lozach (Managing Director SOPEXA USA); Leonardo LoCascio (Presiedent and CEO of Winebow) and William Slone ( CEO of Beverage Media Group), just to name a few.
Please go to www.USDrinksConference.com for a complete list of speakers, pricing and agenda.
The agenda is intriguing. Sessions covering topics that are critical to the industry include:
US Market Overview: Entry, Economics and Approaches; US Spirit, Wine and Beer Overview: Structure, Trends, and Consumer Behavior; How to Launch your Brand: Allocating Budgets and an Overview on Social Media Marketing; Panel Discussions including: What made these Brand Introductions Successful?; What's all of this talk about social media marketing?; How does a new Supplier develop a relationship with a Distributor?; How to enter the US Market? and Legal Do's,Don'ts and How To's.
This conference is a must for wine, beer and spirits executives with responsibility for US Markets, as well as those purchasing execs with export responsibility.
Case histories will be discussed with candid insights and lessons to be learned. The current market data and research US consumer trends will be discussed.
This promises to be a special event with insight from top professionals, shared, honestly with peers in the industry. Please go the website and look at the agenda and speakers. It will be worthwhile and may help shape your companies future.
PHILIP S. KAMPE
philip.kampe@thewinehub.com
Friday, October 9, 2009
Chile Travels North
Once a year, just before Thanksgiving - Canadian, that is - the Wines of Chile tasting makes its way to The Distillery District in Toronto. You can always be guaranteed that some good value wines will be found because Chilean wine is almost ridiculously priced lower than most wines available on the market today. Although it is easy to find wines that are so-so, disjointed or, in some cases, overpriced for what is in the glass, I certainly found a large number of white wines yesterday that were amazing and fit into the great value category. Now, last year, after looking back at my blog entry from the 2008 tasting, I saw that I only found two really outstanding wines but this year, there are seven plus three that, at the very least, earn an Honourable Mention. Check out my reviews below as well as ordering information.
Vina Botalcura 2009 El Delirio Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
$13.95 per bottle
Available through H.H.D. Imports Inc.
http://www.hhdimports.com
Aromas of stone fruit, pears, herbal and floral with flavours of gooseberry and citrus – mostly lemon. There is great balance and a lively mouthfeel to this wine that makes it thoroughly enjoyable. At $13.95 a bottle, this is definitely one of those wines that would pair well with a number of seafood or fish dishes, although I would avoid anything that has a cream sauce with this wine. Definitely one of many good value wines tasted this afternoon.
Vina Carta Vieja 2007 G7 Gran Reserva Chardonnay
$17.95 per bottle
Available through Small Winemakers Collection
http://www.smallwinemakers.ca
The aromas on this wine are really, really subtle but you can detect slight creamy, buttery aromas and slight stone fruit. The flavours are a continuation of the creamy, buttery aromas but with a distinct thread of minerality weaving its way through. A slight hint of peach, apple and pear on the finish makes this a truly lovely wine. Would be great with Roast Chicken or Turkey or any cream sauce pasta.
Vina Concha y Toro 2008 Trio Reserva White
$12.95 per bottle
Available through Select Wine Merchants
http://www.selectwines.ca
Please note that at the moment, this wine is currently not available anywhere. Select Wine Merchants advised that it is slated to be a part of the Vintages March release so you will have to wait but I can guarantee you that if you enjoy white blended wines, this is definitely one you have to try.
This wine is a blending of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Blanc although, in previous vintages, instead of Pinot Blanc, Riesling has been used. The aromas on this wine are huge and plentiful like – I believe – any white blend wine should be. Lots of citrus aromas – mostly mandarin oranges and lime but there is a healthy mix of fig and grapefruit to add complexity. The palate has great balance to it and along with the aromas mentioned above there is a good threading of minerality through the flavours. There is an almost lively structure to the palate and a great finish making this wine a definite must try and must buy!
Vina Concha y Toro 2007 Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay
$17.95 per bottle
Currently in Vintages, CSPC #342857
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=342857
The LCBO is currently showing 50 bottles available throughout Ontario of this wine. If you are interested in purchasing this wine, do so quickly!
This wine was barrel fermented on its lees in 1/3 new French Oak and 2/3 second and third fill French Oak barrels making this a rather big, over the top Chardonnay. Aromas of pear, fig and hazelnut meld seamlessly onto the palate where they are super concentrated, have great balance and a silky smooth texture. It has a vibrant mouthfeel and a long, lingering finish. Super Yummy and although it is a little higher priced than what I would call a value wine, it is definitely worth every penny they are charging for it.
Vina San Pedro Tarapaca 2009 Castillo de Molina Sauvignon Blanc
$14.99 per bottle
Available through Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits
http://www.diamondwines.com
This is every aroma and flavour of Sauvignon Blanc known to man wrapped up into one wine. Mineral, citrus, green onion, gunpowder and even a touch of sea salt are the aromas that greet you when you swirl this wine in your glass. The flavours are more of the mineral and fruity character you find in the aromas but along with the green onion there is a rather distinctive hint of thyme and then a very tart finish. Just like tannins will give you a pucker feeling in your mouth with a red wine, this particular white wine gives you the pucker feeling from the distinctive lemon finish.
Vina Santa Rita 2009 120 Series Sauvignon Blanc
$10.45 per bottle
Currently in LCBO General List, CSPC #23606
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=23606
This is not my first time trying this wine. Back in July I attended a label redesign release party for Santa Rita wines and the 120 Series was a major part of that party. The aromas and flavours of this wine are mostly grapefruit and lemon but with slight hints of tropical fruit and herbs. What the bottle does not tell you is that the winemaker added in 2% Semillon to add some complexity to the wine which is where those tropical fruit aromas come from. In addition to the typical Sauvignon Blanc flavours of citrus, lemongrass and gooseberry, the 2% Semillon adds pineapple, mango and papaya to the flavour. Although the term “fruit bomb” tends to be associated exclusively with fruity RED wines, this white wine could easily qualify for that term.
Vina Santa Rita 2007 Medalla Real Chardonnay
$18.95 per bottle
Currently in Vintages, CSPC #303628
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=303628
In most cases, Chardonnay goes through the crusher/destemmer when it comes in from the fields. In the case of this particular Chardonnay, 75% of the grapes went through this process but the remaining 25% went through whole cluster pressing instead of ever spending time in the crusher. This whole cluster pressing might account for the interesting olive green colour in the glass, since Chardonnay, and especially oaked Chardonnay, tends to have more of a goldenrod yellow colour. The aromas are a very interesting combination of both fresh and dried fruits as well as mineral. The palate has distinctive flavours of tropical fruit, slight creaminess and a backbone of peaches and nectarines.
Vina Valdivieso 2007 Single Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay Wild Fermented
$22.60 per bottle
Available through Carriage Trade Wines & Spirits
http://www.carriagetradewines.com
I have never been a major fan of Chardonnay and the other Chardonnay on the table from this winery was definitely not one that caught my attention in the way that this Single Vineyard Wild Fermented Chardonnay did. In general, a lot of wineries shy away from using wild yeast to ferment any of their wines. If you do not understand the complexities of wild yeasts it can be an extremely tricky and sometimes disastrous result to what could be a really great wine. Now, that is not to say you should never try it and if a winemaker knows the process and tricks to working with wild yeast then as a consumer you will have the opportunity to try a very interesting wine.
The aromatics on this wine are, simply put, powerful! Grapefruit, citrus marmalade, vanilla and a major mineral component are the major aromas in play here and they continue on to the flavours where there is major fruit concentration and balance. The mineral component from the aromas is definitely the backbone of the flavours in this wine and then there is this delightful and pleasant spicy kick in the finish.
Vina Caliterra 2009 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc
$8.95 per bottle
Currently in LCBO General Listing, CSPC #275909
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=275909
Sauvignon Blanc with a tropical fruit aroma – guava, grapefruit and tangerine abound in this glass. These aromas transfer on to the palate where there is a mingling with mineral and then a crisp, lemony finish. The lemon is not overpowering though – it is just a perfect kick of refreshing crispness right at the back of this wine.
Vina Caliterra 2008 Reserva Chardonnay
$8.95 per bottle
Currently in LCBO General Listing, CSPC #257147
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=257147
I did something yesterday afternoon after I left this trade tasting that I have never done in all the fifteen years I have been a member of the food and beverage industry. I went and bought not one, but three, bottles of this wine which I had just tasted less than two hours previously. It is not a conscious decision on my part – it is just something I have never done. This wine impressed me enough that, without first checking to see which LCBO stores in my area might be carrying it, I just went to the closest LCBO to the train station.
The aromas are tropical fruit – mostly pineapple – with the distinctive creaminess that tells you that this wine spent just the perfect amount of time in oak barrels. The flavours on this wine can only be described as WOW!!! Just about every type of tropical fruit you can imagine – pineapple, mango, papaya, even a bit of banana and many more I could list – with just the right about of cream and crème fraiche. This wine sells for $8.95 a bottle but they could easily make a killing in the stores even pricing it at $20 a bottle.
Now, there were three wines that deserve honourable mentions. The first one is actually more of a situation than an actual wine. When we arrive at tastings like this, aside from getting our tasting glass we are given a booklet where we can make our tasting notes in. They list all of the wineries, with their contact information and – for international wines – their importer’s information and all of the wines that are available at their tables that day. When it is a large tasting it is always smart to take a moment to glance through the booklet and see if there is anything really unique or really outstanding that has to be tried. At yesterday’s tasting the one wine that caught a lot of people’s interest is a Gewurztraminer. Vina Nativa is based out of Santiago, Chile which has a large German population and, combined with the fact that their winemaker was educated in Europe, they have planted one of the most well known German varietals out there. I would not call this an outstanding wine and, at this point, it is not available for purchase in Ontario but I think they deserve a mention for making an effort at trying a cool climate varietal in a decidedly hot climate winemaking region. Hopefully, at some point in the future, this wine will come into its own and be an exciting new varietal for this region.
Now, the other two wines that deserve honourable mentions from the tasting are the two red wines that I had a chance to try after trying hundreds of white wines. Please read the tasting notes below:
Vina Santa Alicia 2008 Reserva Malbec
$11.95 per bottle
Available through Eurovintage International Inc.
http://www.eurovintage.com
Chilean Malbec is very, very different from Argentinean Malbec which is definitely the more known of the two in terms of Malbec producing regions. If you are looking for a red wine that is out of the ordinary, this is definitely a wine you should stop and look at. Aromas of bell peppers, prunes, herbal and even a hint of cocoa, the flavours are similar but also add cinnamon and floral to balance it out. The mouthfeel on this wine is full and plush – it’s almost as big as a Napa Cab – while the tannins are well structured, rounded and complex.
They are showing this wine as not yet available in Ontario but if you contact Eurovintage, they may be able to give you a better time frame on when you will be able to get your hands on this wine.
Vina Santa Alicia 2006 Gran Reserva Carmenere
$18.95 per bottle
Available through Eurovintage International Inc.
http://www.eurovintage.com
Carmenere is a grape varietal that is almost unique to Chile. It used to be in Europe hundreds of years ago but disease knocked the entire crop away and now can only be found in Chilean vineyards. Although it can be commonly confused with some of the heartier red grape varietals, it does have some unique qualities not found in others. The aromas are mostly spice, coffee and raspberry while the mouthfeel is big, round and supple. This particular Carmenere could easily be confused with an Aussie Shiraz given the aroma and flavour profiles but, at this price, it is clearly Chilean. One thing you can always say about Chilean wineries – they know what they are good at and they do not mess with it.
Vina Botalcura 2009 El Delirio Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
$13.95 per bottle
Available through H.H.D. Imports Inc.
http://www.hhdimports.com
Aromas of stone fruit, pears, herbal and floral with flavours of gooseberry and citrus – mostly lemon. There is great balance and a lively mouthfeel to this wine that makes it thoroughly enjoyable. At $13.95 a bottle, this is definitely one of those wines that would pair well with a number of seafood or fish dishes, although I would avoid anything that has a cream sauce with this wine. Definitely one of many good value wines tasted this afternoon.
Vina Carta Vieja 2007 G7 Gran Reserva Chardonnay
$17.95 per bottle
Available through Small Winemakers Collection
http://www.smallwinemakers.ca
The aromas on this wine are really, really subtle but you can detect slight creamy, buttery aromas and slight stone fruit. The flavours are a continuation of the creamy, buttery aromas but with a distinct thread of minerality weaving its way through. A slight hint of peach, apple and pear on the finish makes this a truly lovely wine. Would be great with Roast Chicken or Turkey or any cream sauce pasta.
Vina Concha y Toro 2008 Trio Reserva White
$12.95 per bottle
Available through Select Wine Merchants
http://www.selectwines.ca
Please note that at the moment, this wine is currently not available anywhere. Select Wine Merchants advised that it is slated to be a part of the Vintages March release so you will have to wait but I can guarantee you that if you enjoy white blended wines, this is definitely one you have to try.
This wine is a blending of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Blanc although, in previous vintages, instead of Pinot Blanc, Riesling has been used. The aromas on this wine are huge and plentiful like – I believe – any white blend wine should be. Lots of citrus aromas – mostly mandarin oranges and lime but there is a healthy mix of fig and grapefruit to add complexity. The palate has great balance to it and along with the aromas mentioned above there is a good threading of minerality through the flavours. There is an almost lively structure to the palate and a great finish making this wine a definite must try and must buy!
Vina Concha y Toro 2007 Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay
$17.95 per bottle
Currently in Vintages, CSPC #342857
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=342857
The LCBO is currently showing 50 bottles available throughout Ontario of this wine. If you are interested in purchasing this wine, do so quickly!
This wine was barrel fermented on its lees in 1/3 new French Oak and 2/3 second and third fill French Oak barrels making this a rather big, over the top Chardonnay. Aromas of pear, fig and hazelnut meld seamlessly onto the palate where they are super concentrated, have great balance and a silky smooth texture. It has a vibrant mouthfeel and a long, lingering finish. Super Yummy and although it is a little higher priced than what I would call a value wine, it is definitely worth every penny they are charging for it.
Vina San Pedro Tarapaca 2009 Castillo de Molina Sauvignon Blanc
$14.99 per bottle
Available through Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits
http://www.diamondwines.com
This is every aroma and flavour of Sauvignon Blanc known to man wrapped up into one wine. Mineral, citrus, green onion, gunpowder and even a touch of sea salt are the aromas that greet you when you swirl this wine in your glass. The flavours are more of the mineral and fruity character you find in the aromas but along with the green onion there is a rather distinctive hint of thyme and then a very tart finish. Just like tannins will give you a pucker feeling in your mouth with a red wine, this particular white wine gives you the pucker feeling from the distinctive lemon finish.
Vina Santa Rita 2009 120 Series Sauvignon Blanc
$10.45 per bottle
Currently in LCBO General List, CSPC #23606
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=23606
This is not my first time trying this wine. Back in July I attended a label redesign release party for Santa Rita wines and the 120 Series was a major part of that party. The aromas and flavours of this wine are mostly grapefruit and lemon but with slight hints of tropical fruit and herbs. What the bottle does not tell you is that the winemaker added in 2% Semillon to add some complexity to the wine which is where those tropical fruit aromas come from. In addition to the typical Sauvignon Blanc flavours of citrus, lemongrass and gooseberry, the 2% Semillon adds pineapple, mango and papaya to the flavour. Although the term “fruit bomb” tends to be associated exclusively with fruity RED wines, this white wine could easily qualify for that term.
Vina Santa Rita 2007 Medalla Real Chardonnay
$18.95 per bottle
Currently in Vintages, CSPC #303628
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=303628
In most cases, Chardonnay goes through the crusher/destemmer when it comes in from the fields. In the case of this particular Chardonnay, 75% of the grapes went through this process but the remaining 25% went through whole cluster pressing instead of ever spending time in the crusher. This whole cluster pressing might account for the interesting olive green colour in the glass, since Chardonnay, and especially oaked Chardonnay, tends to have more of a goldenrod yellow colour. The aromas are a very interesting combination of both fresh and dried fruits as well as mineral. The palate has distinctive flavours of tropical fruit, slight creaminess and a backbone of peaches and nectarines.
Vina Valdivieso 2007 Single Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay Wild Fermented
$22.60 per bottle
Available through Carriage Trade Wines & Spirits
http://www.carriagetradewines.com
I have never been a major fan of Chardonnay and the other Chardonnay on the table from this winery was definitely not one that caught my attention in the way that this Single Vineyard Wild Fermented Chardonnay did. In general, a lot of wineries shy away from using wild yeast to ferment any of their wines. If you do not understand the complexities of wild yeasts it can be an extremely tricky and sometimes disastrous result to what could be a really great wine. Now, that is not to say you should never try it and if a winemaker knows the process and tricks to working with wild yeast then as a consumer you will have the opportunity to try a very interesting wine.
The aromatics on this wine are, simply put, powerful! Grapefruit, citrus marmalade, vanilla and a major mineral component are the major aromas in play here and they continue on to the flavours where there is major fruit concentration and balance. The mineral component from the aromas is definitely the backbone of the flavours in this wine and then there is this delightful and pleasant spicy kick in the finish.
Vina Caliterra 2009 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc
$8.95 per bottle
Currently in LCBO General Listing, CSPC #275909
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=275909
Sauvignon Blanc with a tropical fruit aroma – guava, grapefruit and tangerine abound in this glass. These aromas transfer on to the palate where there is a mingling with mineral and then a crisp, lemony finish. The lemon is not overpowering though – it is just a perfect kick of refreshing crispness right at the back of this wine.
Vina Caliterra 2008 Reserva Chardonnay
$8.95 per bottle
Currently in LCBO General Listing, CSPC #257147
http://www.lcbo.ca/lcbo-ear/lcbo/product/details.do?language=EN&itemNumber=257147
I did something yesterday afternoon after I left this trade tasting that I have never done in all the fifteen years I have been a member of the food and beverage industry. I went and bought not one, but three, bottles of this wine which I had just tasted less than two hours previously. It is not a conscious decision on my part – it is just something I have never done. This wine impressed me enough that, without first checking to see which LCBO stores in my area might be carrying it, I just went to the closest LCBO to the train station.
The aromas are tropical fruit – mostly pineapple – with the distinctive creaminess that tells you that this wine spent just the perfect amount of time in oak barrels. The flavours on this wine can only be described as WOW!!! Just about every type of tropical fruit you can imagine – pineapple, mango, papaya, even a bit of banana and many more I could list – with just the right about of cream and crème fraiche. This wine sells for $8.95 a bottle but they could easily make a killing in the stores even pricing it at $20 a bottle.
Now, there were three wines that deserve honourable mentions. The first one is actually more of a situation than an actual wine. When we arrive at tastings like this, aside from getting our tasting glass we are given a booklet where we can make our tasting notes in. They list all of the wineries, with their contact information and – for international wines – their importer’s information and all of the wines that are available at their tables that day. When it is a large tasting it is always smart to take a moment to glance through the booklet and see if there is anything really unique or really outstanding that has to be tried. At yesterday’s tasting the one wine that caught a lot of people’s interest is a Gewurztraminer. Vina Nativa is based out of Santiago, Chile which has a large German population and, combined with the fact that their winemaker was educated in Europe, they have planted one of the most well known German varietals out there. I would not call this an outstanding wine and, at this point, it is not available for purchase in Ontario but I think they deserve a mention for making an effort at trying a cool climate varietal in a decidedly hot climate winemaking region. Hopefully, at some point in the future, this wine will come into its own and be an exciting new varietal for this region.
Now, the other two wines that deserve honourable mentions from the tasting are the two red wines that I had a chance to try after trying hundreds of white wines. Please read the tasting notes below:
Vina Santa Alicia 2008 Reserva Malbec
$11.95 per bottle
Available through Eurovintage International Inc.
http://www.eurovintage.com
Chilean Malbec is very, very different from Argentinean Malbec which is definitely the more known of the two in terms of Malbec producing regions. If you are looking for a red wine that is out of the ordinary, this is definitely a wine you should stop and look at. Aromas of bell peppers, prunes, herbal and even a hint of cocoa, the flavours are similar but also add cinnamon and floral to balance it out. The mouthfeel on this wine is full and plush – it’s almost as big as a Napa Cab – while the tannins are well structured, rounded and complex.
They are showing this wine as not yet available in Ontario but if you contact Eurovintage, they may be able to give you a better time frame on when you will be able to get your hands on this wine.
Vina Santa Alicia 2006 Gran Reserva Carmenere
$18.95 per bottle
Available through Eurovintage International Inc.
http://www.eurovintage.com
Carmenere is a grape varietal that is almost unique to Chile. It used to be in Europe hundreds of years ago but disease knocked the entire crop away and now can only be found in Chilean vineyards. Although it can be commonly confused with some of the heartier red grape varietals, it does have some unique qualities not found in others. The aromas are mostly spice, coffee and raspberry while the mouthfeel is big, round and supple. This particular Carmenere could easily be confused with an Aussie Shiraz given the aroma and flavour profiles but, at this price, it is clearly Chilean. One thing you can always say about Chilean wineries – they know what they are good at and they do not mess with it.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Sonoma in the City
Toronto has the opportunity twice a year to try California wines…one in April which encompasses all of California’s wine regions and once in September when the focus lies squarely on Sonoma wines. The tendency is there to always think of Chardonnay when it comes to California wine and, in terms of Sonoma, Pinot Noir seems to be the natural choice for red wine. Although I did find a couple of outstanding Chardonnay’s at this tasting what impressed me more were the non-typical white and red varietals that I tasted this afternoon. Incidentally, although there were a few Pinot Noir’s that I did enjoy none of them stood up to the Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and red blends strategically placed around The Arcadian Court that day.
Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
$29.95 per bottle
Available through Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
A very powerful Sauvignon Blanc! A myriad of aromas and flavours include honeysuckle, tropical fruit, pear, stone fruit, spice and lemon. Each sniff and each sip of this wine brings something new to the forefront in this ever changing wine without being too overpowering. You could enjoy this wine on its own quite easily but this would also nicely compliment a variety of Asian inspired dishes.
Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 North Slope Pinot Gris
$40 per bottle
Available through Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
In terms of grape varietals, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay could not be any further apart on the similarity scale than you can imagine. However, with the North Slope Pinot Gris from Chalk Hill Estate, nothing could be further from the truth. The aromas encompass the full range of stone fruit, nuts and citrus while the flavours are this intense combination of spice, nectarine and cream. This smells and tastes exactly like a typical California Chardonnay…well, a typical Chardonnay in the style most California wineries are now making. The long, lingering finish combines all of the flavours and aromas previously tasted – vanilla, cream, citrus, tropical fruit and spice – which just seems to stay on forever. This is definitely one of the most intriguing Pinot Gris’ I have tasted in quite a while and would pair well with a wide variety of foods.
Pedroncelli Winery 2008 Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
$12.00 USD per bottle
Available through Grape Expectations
(416) 894-5055
If you are looking for an easy drinking, every day kind of Sauvignon Blanc, then this wine is definitely one for that category. Sauvignon Blanc typically displays aromas of citrus fruit, mineral and gooseberry with similar flavours, a crisp, clean mouthfeel, perfect acidity and a medium long finish. This wine has all of that and more – aromas of grapefruit, honey and mineral and flavours of melon, citrus and tropical fruit. The balanced acidity and crisp clean mouthfeel are definitely there and, like most Sauvignon Blanc’s, pair with a wide variety of dishes. Personally, just about any kind of fish or seafood would be perfect.
Now, I did mention that there were a couple of Chardonnay’s that were outstanding this day so I am going to now give them their moment in the spotlight before moving on to the various red wines of the day. The first Chardonnay comes from Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards and Winery where our first Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris came from. The second Chardonnay comes from the Russian River Valley in the middle section of Sonoma from Davis Bynum Winery. Check it out…
Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Chardonnay
$25.00 USD per bottle
Available from Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
I love the KISS rule – keep it sweet and simple – and Chalk Hill Estate has done exactly that with this Chardonnay. The aromas are barely there but the flavours more than come out to the forefront. Pear, a slight hint of floral, cream and minerality are all key players in the palate with a bit of spice in the finish. Definitely an enjoyable, every day kind of Chardonnay. Try it out – on its own or with a chicken dish – and let us know what you think.
Davis Bynum Winery 2007 Russian River Valley Chardonnay
$25.00 USD per bottle
Available from Mark Anthony Brands
http://www.markanthony.com
This wine epitomizes everything I love about Chardonnay. Aromatics of roasted and tropical fruit, and a slight hint of smoke; flavours of more tropical fruit, a hint of citrus and a luscious mouthfeel that seems to linger forever. This is definitely one of those “yummy” wines that is begging to be enjoyed with roast chicken at a table of family and friends.
So, now we move on to some absolutely stellar reds. Zinfandels from Pezzi-King Vineyards, Sbragia Family Vineyards and Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery, Petite Sirah and a red blend from Foppiano Vineyards. Read on to find out what I found awaiting me at the various tables that day…
Foppiano Vineyards 2005 Petite Sirah
$28.20 per bottle
Available from Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
One thing I really love about Petite Sirah’s is their intense, deep, rich purple colour and exotic dark berry aroma. This Petite Sirah does not disappoint by any means. Those aromas continue on to the flavours where they are met with black and blue berry fruit, vanilla, spice and even a slight hint of cocoa. The tannins are still fairly firm but not overwhelmingly so – it would be interesting to see what this wine is like in 2-3 years time.
Foppiano Vineyards Lot 96 Proprietary Blend
$17.25 per bottle
Available from Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
Not everyone appreciates a nicely blended wine but I tend to think they are unique, enjoyable and sometimes surprising. Foppiano Vineyards Lot 96 – named for the family’s original roots in the area which date back to 1896 – is just such a wine; a blending of seven different grapes, some of which that aren’t even grown in Ontario, and all of which have a percentage of less than 30% in the final product. Here are the specific details on this wine – 28% Sangiovese, 19% Petite Sirah, 17% Zinfandel, 14% Carignane, 10% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc.
Now, what is this wine actually like? Well, to put it simply, it’s a powerhouse at an amazing price. The aromas – berry fruit, red currants, cherry, cedar, vanilla and toast – make this one of the most complex aromatic experiences I have had in a very long time. The palate is slightly jammy but has a great kick of spice and then cherries on the lingering finish. The price on this wine with the jam packed set of flavours and aromas make this wine an incredible value…almost a steal.
Pezzi-King Vineyards 2005 Sonoma County Zinfandel
$18.00 USD per bottle
Available through The Case for Wine
http://www.thecaseforwine.com
I love Zinfandel’s for their rich, opaque, dark purple colour and this one does not disappoint. The aromatics are really subtle on this wine but the flavours definitely pack a punch. Berry fruit and honey with a jammy mouthfeel, this wine has a lingering, spicy finish, great balance and smooth tannins. It would be very interesting to see what this wine is like in 3-4 years.
Pezzi-King Vineyards 2006 Old Vines Zinfandel
$22.00 USD per bottle
Available through The Case for Wine
http://www.thecaseforwine.com
Although this wine is a year younger than Pezzi-King’s Sonoma County Zinfandel (previous review), this wine is a hundred times better than it. The aromatics are much more forward than the 2005 – concentrated raspberry and spice – and the flavours can only be described as powerhouse flavours. This wine is BIG and HOT – almost over the top – and the finish seems to go on forever. Even though this wine is amazing now, it would be interesting to see what this is like in a year or so.
Sbragia Family Vineyards 2006 Gino’s Zinfandel
$28.00 USD per bottle
Available through Foster’s Wine Estates Canada
http://www.fosters.com.au
Gino Sbragia was the patriarch of this winemaking family. Having now passed away, his son Ed is now running the business with his family – Adam, Kevin, Jane, Kathy and Gina. Gino’s Vineyard was Gino’s home vineyard which is now taken care of by Ed and Adam and is planted exclusively to Zinfandel with vines that date back 25 years. This is everything you come to expect from California Zinfandel – spice, berry and cherry in both the aromas and the flavours. If I wanted a Zinfandel for every day drinking, this would be it.
So, this brings to a conclusion this blog. If you are interested in getting any of these, the contact information for all of the importers is listed with each wine. Happy drinking…and for those of you in Canada, Happy Thanksgiving next weekend. Maybe one of these wines will make it to your dinner table with your Turkey.
Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
$29.95 per bottle
Available through Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
A very powerful Sauvignon Blanc! A myriad of aromas and flavours include honeysuckle, tropical fruit, pear, stone fruit, spice and lemon. Each sniff and each sip of this wine brings something new to the forefront in this ever changing wine without being too overpowering. You could enjoy this wine on its own quite easily but this would also nicely compliment a variety of Asian inspired dishes.
Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 North Slope Pinot Gris
$40 per bottle
Available through Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
In terms of grape varietals, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay could not be any further apart on the similarity scale than you can imagine. However, with the North Slope Pinot Gris from Chalk Hill Estate, nothing could be further from the truth. The aromas encompass the full range of stone fruit, nuts and citrus while the flavours are this intense combination of spice, nectarine and cream. This smells and tastes exactly like a typical California Chardonnay…well, a typical Chardonnay in the style most California wineries are now making. The long, lingering finish combines all of the flavours and aromas previously tasted – vanilla, cream, citrus, tropical fruit and spice – which just seems to stay on forever. This is definitely one of the most intriguing Pinot Gris’ I have tasted in quite a while and would pair well with a wide variety of foods.
Pedroncelli Winery 2008 Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
$12.00 USD per bottle
Available through Grape Expectations
(416) 894-5055
If you are looking for an easy drinking, every day kind of Sauvignon Blanc, then this wine is definitely one for that category. Sauvignon Blanc typically displays aromas of citrus fruit, mineral and gooseberry with similar flavours, a crisp, clean mouthfeel, perfect acidity and a medium long finish. This wine has all of that and more – aromas of grapefruit, honey and mineral and flavours of melon, citrus and tropical fruit. The balanced acidity and crisp clean mouthfeel are definitely there and, like most Sauvignon Blanc’s, pair with a wide variety of dishes. Personally, just about any kind of fish or seafood would be perfect.
Now, I did mention that there were a couple of Chardonnay’s that were outstanding this day so I am going to now give them their moment in the spotlight before moving on to the various red wines of the day. The first Chardonnay comes from Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards and Winery where our first Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris came from. The second Chardonnay comes from the Russian River Valley in the middle section of Sonoma from Davis Bynum Winery. Check it out…
Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards & Winery 2006 Estate Chardonnay
$25.00 USD per bottle
Available from Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
I love the KISS rule – keep it sweet and simple – and Chalk Hill Estate has done exactly that with this Chardonnay. The aromas are barely there but the flavours more than come out to the forefront. Pear, a slight hint of floral, cream and minerality are all key players in the palate with a bit of spice in the finish. Definitely an enjoyable, every day kind of Chardonnay. Try it out – on its own or with a chicken dish – and let us know what you think.
Davis Bynum Winery 2007 Russian River Valley Chardonnay
$25.00 USD per bottle
Available from Mark Anthony Brands
http://www.markanthony.com
This wine epitomizes everything I love about Chardonnay. Aromatics of roasted and tropical fruit, and a slight hint of smoke; flavours of more tropical fruit, a hint of citrus and a luscious mouthfeel that seems to linger forever. This is definitely one of those “yummy” wines that is begging to be enjoyed with roast chicken at a table of family and friends.
So, now we move on to some absolutely stellar reds. Zinfandels from Pezzi-King Vineyards, Sbragia Family Vineyards and Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery, Petite Sirah and a red blend from Foppiano Vineyards. Read on to find out what I found awaiting me at the various tables that day…
Foppiano Vineyards 2005 Petite Sirah
$28.20 per bottle
Available from Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
One thing I really love about Petite Sirah’s is their intense, deep, rich purple colour and exotic dark berry aroma. This Petite Sirah does not disappoint by any means. Those aromas continue on to the flavours where they are met with black and blue berry fruit, vanilla, spice and even a slight hint of cocoa. The tannins are still fairly firm but not overwhelmingly so – it would be interesting to see what this wine is like in 2-3 years time.
Foppiano Vineyards Lot 96 Proprietary Blend
$17.25 per bottle
Available from Halpern Enterprises
http://www.halpernwine.com
Not everyone appreciates a nicely blended wine but I tend to think they are unique, enjoyable and sometimes surprising. Foppiano Vineyards Lot 96 – named for the family’s original roots in the area which date back to 1896 – is just such a wine; a blending of seven different grapes, some of which that aren’t even grown in Ontario, and all of which have a percentage of less than 30% in the final product. Here are the specific details on this wine – 28% Sangiovese, 19% Petite Sirah, 17% Zinfandel, 14% Carignane, 10% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc.
Now, what is this wine actually like? Well, to put it simply, it’s a powerhouse at an amazing price. The aromas – berry fruit, red currants, cherry, cedar, vanilla and toast – make this one of the most complex aromatic experiences I have had in a very long time. The palate is slightly jammy but has a great kick of spice and then cherries on the lingering finish. The price on this wine with the jam packed set of flavours and aromas make this wine an incredible value…almost a steal.
Pezzi-King Vineyards 2005 Sonoma County Zinfandel
$18.00 USD per bottle
Available through The Case for Wine
http://www.thecaseforwine.com
I love Zinfandel’s for their rich, opaque, dark purple colour and this one does not disappoint. The aromatics are really subtle on this wine but the flavours definitely pack a punch. Berry fruit and honey with a jammy mouthfeel, this wine has a lingering, spicy finish, great balance and smooth tannins. It would be very interesting to see what this wine is like in 3-4 years.
Pezzi-King Vineyards 2006 Old Vines Zinfandel
$22.00 USD per bottle
Available through The Case for Wine
http://www.thecaseforwine.com
Although this wine is a year younger than Pezzi-King’s Sonoma County Zinfandel (previous review), this wine is a hundred times better than it. The aromatics are much more forward than the 2005 – concentrated raspberry and spice – and the flavours can only be described as powerhouse flavours. This wine is BIG and HOT – almost over the top – and the finish seems to go on forever. Even though this wine is amazing now, it would be interesting to see what this is like in a year or so.
Sbragia Family Vineyards 2006 Gino’s Zinfandel
$28.00 USD per bottle
Available through Foster’s Wine Estates Canada
http://www.fosters.com.au
Gino Sbragia was the patriarch of this winemaking family. Having now passed away, his son Ed is now running the business with his family – Adam, Kevin, Jane, Kathy and Gina. Gino’s Vineyard was Gino’s home vineyard which is now taken care of by Ed and Adam and is planted exclusively to Zinfandel with vines that date back 25 years. This is everything you come to expect from California Zinfandel – spice, berry and cherry in both the aromas and the flavours. If I wanted a Zinfandel for every day drinking, this would be it.
So, this brings to a conclusion this blog. If you are interested in getting any of these, the contact information for all of the importers is listed with each wine. Happy drinking…and for those of you in Canada, Happy Thanksgiving next weekend. Maybe one of these wines will make it to your dinner table with your Turkey.
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