Thursday, April 4, 2019

The BOBAL Journey Begins by Philip S. Kampe




                                                      The Bobal Journey and Quiz

The pursuit of red wine has always been one of my goals. Whether it’s a red Burgundy, a glass of Amarone or Primitivo or a Cabernet Sauvignon, I am a happy person when the juice of the red grape hits my discerning palate.

Not so long ago I sampled a red varietal (grape) that was overly friendly (juicy and delicious) and destined to be one of my new ‘go to’ grapes.  I attended a seminar on the Bobal varietal, led by one of the wine world’s luminaries, Nora Favelukas. Within the seminar hour I was converted.

The next day, I  arrived  home (western Massachusetts). It was time to  to pursue my  Bobal studies at home. I did my homework. (I always like to understand the muse I follow)

I learned that Bobal was Spain’s third most planted grape, after Tempranillo and Airen. Why hadn’t I heard of the grape until now? It is planted elsewhere, (France and Sardinia) but in small plots, In Spain it thrives.

D.O.Utiel-Requena, is known as the ‘Land of Bobal.’

Located in southeast Spain, about an hour plus from beautiful Valencia, Utiel-Requena is sun-drenched. The region has produced wine for 2700 years. It is also on the list to become a UNESCO Heritage World Site in the near future. With over 100 vineyards and 70,000 acres of Bobal, the future growth of this region and the grape should be immediate. That is why I am writing this article.

The problem is, its difficult to find Bobal in your neighborhood wine shop. I have tried and have had to order online to secure bottles to sample. I don’t want to be the only Bobal voice, but, once you taste the wine, you will understand my position.

Bobal means ‘bull’. According to folklore, the large clusters of grapes resembles a bull’s head. The grapes are thick-skinned, deep in color and rich (full) bodied. Its not until recently that the grape has headed towards stardom. In the last 2700 years, the grape was mainly a blending grape and a grape whose skins were used to color Rose wine.

With the latest generation of young winemakers throughout the region and their pursuit  to success, coupled with the older winemakers of the region, the direction of Bobal production has changed or done an about face.

Now, the grape will be defined by the winemaker who will certainly retain the elegance and robust complexity that make Bobal special. Sure, notable dark fruits dominate the palate. Think fig, prune, plum, blueberry and blackberry,

The province of Valencia has three D.O’s, Valencia, Alicante and Utiel-Requena, home of Bobal.

Bobal’s newly acquired nobility has created a unified need for the local wine association to represent Utiel-Requena, (Learn more at: www.utielrequena.org).

Utiel-Requena is located less then fifty miles from the Mediterranean Sea. The  combination of both the Mediterranean and Continental climate is defined simply as dry and hot, with short summers and cold and long winters.The air is often windy. Insects don't like wind. Vineyards do, so, many vineyards are organic and practice sustainability.

Alluvial soil and clay with limestone deposits are the home base of Bobal. The warm, dry winds of the Piniente, from the west, passes through the region. The altitude is between 1,950 feet to 2,960 feet. 80% of the vineyards are planted with Bobal. Bobal is grown mainly in Utiel-Requena, as well as neighboring Manchela, Alicante and Murcia.

The region is quite historical, establishing a D.O. in the 1930’s. In those days, Bobal was used as a blending grape, as were many other international varietals. The problem with Bobal is the fact that the clusters ripen unevenly. A positive note is with late flowering, frost is rarely a problem. Bobal likes heat and with the new generation of winemakers, we are learning that Bobal ages well.

The wines from Utiel-Requena follow the Spanish classification rules. Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva are common, as well as the word ‘Tradicion’ , which is on the bottle, guaranteeing a minimum of at least 70% of the varietal is in the blend. Vinification of Bobal is called doble pasta.

With over one hundred wineries and cooperatives, Utiel-Requena has the potential to become well known. Aren’t wine drinkers looking for the next, new varietal to try?

It may take a few years for this to happen, but, little by little, Bobal will reach the wine shops in your neighborhood. And if you are curious, ask your wine merchant to order Bobal or order Bobal online.

What you will get: a wine with low alcohol, elegant acidity and smooth tannins. Lots of fruit, while the bouquet is herbaceous. Plus, bottles are reasonably priced.

I sampled Bobal from the list of wineries below:
Sierra Norte
Marques del Atrio
Covinas
Dominio de la Vega
Chozas Carrascal
Bodegas Vibe
Valsangiacomo
Pago de Tharsys
Ladron de Lunas

Hope you find your Bobal.

Are you ready for a Bobal quiz?


The BOBAL Quiz

On a recent trip to the Utiel-Requena region of southeast Spain, near Valencia, I had the opportunity to learn about the Bobal varietal. Several years ago, I attended a seminar on Bobal, led by charismic wine educator Nora Favelukas, who opened my curiosity about this ‘fabled grape.’

I’m wondering how much you know about the Bobal grape?  
Let’s take a Quiz.
The correct answers are at the bottom…

1) Bobal is grown where?

a) Spain, France and Sardinia
b) Spain, France nd Portugal
c) Spain and Portugal
d) Spain, Sicily and Portugal

2) Bobal is the ……. most planted grape in Spain.

a) first
b) second
c) third
d) forth

3) Does Bobal have pyrazines?

 a) Yes
 b) No

4) Bobal generally grows on what type of soil(s)?

a) alluvial
b) clay
c) limestone
d) alluvial, clay with limestone

5) What percentage of the Bobal varietal is planted in Utiel-Requena, as compared to all other grapes planted in the region?

a) 50%
b) 60%
c) 70%
d) 80%

6) The word Bobal derives from bovale, meaning?

a) donkey
b) fox
c) bull
d) bobcat

7) Bobal follows the Spanish classified rules. Crianza is aged in oak for three months, Reserva has a minimum of twelve months in oak.  What is the minimum aging in oak for Gran Reserva?

a) 18 month
b) 24 months
c) 36 months
d) 48 months

8) Bobal grows in what type of climate(s)?

a) Continental
b) Mediterranean
c) Continental and Mediterranean

9) The Bobal grape has…..and is…..

a) thin skins and early budding
b) thick skins and is late budding

10) Bocal is permitted in the wines of……

a) Murcia
b) Alicante
c) Manchuela
d) Valencia
e) Valencia, Manchela, Alicante and Murcia


Answers:
1) a
2) c
3) b
4) d
5) d
6) c
7) b
8) c
9) b
10) e


The quiz was a way to introduce you to BOBAL, as well as a selfish way for me to learn about the varietal.

Philip S.Kampe
philip.kampe@thewinehub.com 



















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