#Winelover Unite at 'Beyond Argentina 2016' by Philip S. Kampe

The night of Wednesday, October 5th was a night to remember..
With perfect weather for the outdoor tasting and 'gourmet meal' that followed, the crowd of fellow #Winelover welcomed the amazing line-up.
The event was tagged as 'Argentina Beyond 2016' and took place at Colonia Verde, a restaurant on DeKalb Street in Brooklyn's, Fort Greene section.
The organizers titled the event with this catchy tag line,'A unique date with the avant-garde of wines.
As you can see, the photos really tell the story...

Our Wine For Our Vacation, A Tale by Philip S. Kampe

                                      The Journey's Preparation Begins

Who would have ever thought that on an upcoming twelve day New England ‘Foliage Tour’ that the wines that our small group of four were going to bring with us were going to be controversial?  To analyze that statement, let’s look at the facts. We will travel, give or take, for twelve days, viewing foliage from Massachusetts to Vermont to New Hampshire to Maine and back to Massachusetts.

Our group of four consists of two focused wine geeks, one generic wine drinker and the ‘Wild Card’, a woman who likes Caribbean flavors and Spanish flavors, sort of sweet, flavorful, focusing on pineapple, guava and other exotic fruits. Wine was not her thing, at least, that was my gut feeling. My job was to find a wine that all of us could drink during the journey.

She was the factor that determined our wine experience for the trip.

We booked only Airhub condos and private houses for the journey, hence we had easy access to a refrigerator.

So, my job was to acquaint her with wines and flavors that may be universal to everyone. Ten days is a lot of time and drinking the right beverage is essential.

Sometimes, one must give up their wine drinking habits to make others happy.

This is one of those situations.

Three days before we packed the car for the journey, a wine test was the practical way of determining what wines to purchase for the trip.

 Seven bottled wines and two wines from the box were presented to our palate determining friend. After tasting the nine possibilities with panache and with zero contemplation, she chose the two wines in the box as the ‘mantra for the trip’.

The winner was Beso del Sol, white and red Sangria ($18.99 for 3 liters).

Since the wine in the box travels better then glass bottles, the choice was certainly the best choice for the trip, even for wine geeks. The rational is simple, the wine stays fresh, the cost is low and traveling with a wine that has been opened causes no problems with the police if you were pulled over. An open wine bottle could be a potential problem.

Let me tell you about Beso del Sol Sangria.

From Susan’s choice, as the wine for the trip, many ideas about why she chose, Beso del Sol, with the bag-in-a-box concept,  as optimum for our journey.

The three-liter box is airtight, there are no corks to fall out during transport, it is low in alcohol, 8.5%, so it won’t cause much havoc versus a 16% Malbec. Since the pouch is airtight, the sangria will always be fresh. It is convenient to use and travels easily for the spontaneous picnics and stops along the foliage trail.

Sangria, now, one of the hottest trends, like rose wine has been, is pleasantly sweet, without going over the top. It is light, fruity and certainly a food and snack wine.

We are traveling with both the traditional red and non-traditional white Sangrias from Beso del Sol.

More to follow….

Spanish Garnacha, A True Wine Bargain by Philip S. Kampe

                                                         Spanish Garnacha

Garnacha is as an important grape as Cabernet Sauvignon. Worldwide, over 550,000 acres are planted. Spain is where I am particularly interested in. Over 175,000acres of Garnacha are planted, mostly in the regions of  Aragon, Priorat and Catalonia.

The characteristics widely associated with the grape are:

1) medium acidity
2) medium tannins
3) alcohol:13-16%
4) rich fruit flavors like candied black cherry, strawberry and raspberry

      5) other flavors on the palate include tobacco, anise, cinnamon and black pepper

What I have learned about the Garnacha grape is that its medium weight and lighter ruby color with aromas of grapefruit, licorice, cherry and candied orange rind give it a recognizable aura when tasted on its own. White Garnacha is another story, but, quite similar in its origin.

Having visited both Priorat and Catalonia, I have learned that the heat in these growing regions creates high sugar and alcohol levels in the wine. Often I have sampled wines that are 16% alcohol.

Claudia Angelillo and her staff at Snooth (www.snooth.com ) sent over several bottles of Garnacha for me to taste and comment at a virtual tasting online with other wine types from all over the country. Unfortunately, my connection failed, while my enthusiasm grew regarding these wines, hence this wine post. Hopefully, next time, if I am granted another opportunity, I will have better internet luck.

The wines that I sampled are all Spanish Garnacha, two whites and three reds.

White Garnacha:

  Red Garnacha

closDalian Garnacha Blanca 2015 Terra Alta ($10)
This was quite an elegant wine with aromatics of white peach, apricots and kiwi. The wine was rich and creamy in the palate, with an extra long and lively finish. It was made with 100% White Garnacha grapes. I could not taste any oak and assume it was made in a stainless steel tank. 12.5% alcohol

La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha Blanca 2013 Aragon ($13)
Aged for four months in French oak, flavors of vanilla, lime and tangerine line the palate with a layer of dry minerality that completes the profile. Green apple and stonefruit aromatics help create this enticing wine. 13.5% alcohol

Red Garnacha
Evodia ‘Old Vine Garnacha’ 2015 Aragon ($11)
This wine is a big spice box, with lots of dark cherry, ginger  and dried fig flavor. Concentrated strawberries with some chalky minerality highlight this ambitious, 15% alcohol wine

Cato de Hayas Garnacha Centenaria 2014  Aragon ($12)
Anise, cinnamon and black licorice on the nose followed by a palate full of smooth, velvety, creamy acidic wine with overtones of black licorice and anise, followed by  a long, tannin free finish. 14% alcohol

Castillo de Monseran Aragon 2014 ($8)
An exceptional wine for its price point of $8 or under. A bit jammy with fruit flavors of cherries, plums, strawberries and raspberries. Definitely a food wine and  a daily , ‘go-to wine.’

My knowledge of Spanish Garnacha has escalated since enjoying this huge variety of wines, mostly from Aragon, the northwest portion of Spain. They certainly are affordable, with money well spent.

Why not take your five wine Spanish Garnacha journey?
The total cost for the five bottles was $54



Philip S. Kampe

Philip.kampe@thewinehub.com

Wines of Southwest France 'Shine', The Alternative to Bordeaux by Philip S. Kampe

                                                         Wines of Southwest France

If you like to discover new French wines that do not have the price tag of Bordeaux and focus on ‘terroir’ with indigenous and international varietals, then ‘Wines of Southwest France’ may be your answer.

Fred Dex(heimer) Master Sommelier, recently led a master class tasting of ‘Wines of Southwest  France’ that included examples from PDI Cotes de Gascogne, PDO Saint Mont, PDO Pacherenc du Vic Bilh and PDO Madiran.

Many wines have the same varietals that the wines of Bordeaux, its northern neighbor, have. Add similar wine making styles and indigenous grapes to the barrel and you have some unique, stand-out wines at reasonable prices. The ‘Southwest Region of France’ is not a well known area to wine enthusiasts, including those in the trade, The rather large region stretches from the Atlantic ocean on the west to Bordeaux on the north and Spain and the Pyrenees to the east.  It is the fifth largest winemaking region in France and is home a small population that cherish nature, wine and beauty as its trademark. 

The Cotes de Gascogne sub-region is known for its IGP’s. Winemakers from this area often follow their own rules for crafting wine. Experimentation is recommended. The area has it all, numerous soil types, varied topography and temperatures that range from hot to cold. Add an inquisitive wine maker to the pot and you will certainly find varied results. Success comes easily to the skilled winemaker and often pays off in exports, which are in the 60% range.

Fred Dex refers to the wines from southwest France as ‘humble and convivial’. He goes on to say that the Cotes de Gascogne area is known for ‘value white wines’, wines that restaurants pour by the glass and wines you keep in fridge for day to day use. Master Sommelier Fred Dex pointed out that these simple, entry level wines from Gascogne are perfect house wines-wines that promote citrus, grassiness and crispness.

Saint Mont, another region is Southwest France, recently has been elevated to AOP status, thanks to its co-op that has kept hundreds of farmers in business. It’s known for its high quality wines that use the co-op as its umbrella. There are 200 old year old vines in Saint Mont. The area is known as the region of indigenous varieties.

In fact, Fred Dex said that a lot of international varieties, for example, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Tennant originated in Southwest France.

Madiran makes wines that aren’t  for the ‘faint of heart’, according to Mr.Dex.

Southwest France is home to 29 PDO’s and 14 PGI’s.

PGI means Protected Geographical Indication. PDI describes a product whose production stages are not necessary in the eponymous geographic area, but, the product does have a link to a former famous area, ‘vins de pays.’
PDO means Protected Designation of Origin, the European equivalent of the French AOC. It designates a product that draws its authenticity and typical characteristics from its geographical origins. Expression of a close link between the product and its terroir. The product can not be produced outside of its terroir.

The wines we sampled were the recommendation of Master Sommelier, Fred Dex.

Cotes de Gascogne, ‘Cotes d’Heux’, Domaine Chiroulet 2014
Cotes de Gascogne, ‘Echo Indigo’, Plaimont Producteurs 2015
Cotes de Gascogne, ‘Premieres Grives’, Domaine du Tariquet 2015
Cotes de Gascogne, Domaine Duffour 2015

Saint Mont Blanc, ‘La Faite’, Plaimont Producteurs 2014
Saint Mont Rouge, Le Monastere de Saint Mont, Plaimont Producteurs 2012
Saint Mont Rouge, ‘Beret Noir’, Plaimont Producteurs 2015
Saint Mont Rose, ‘Rose Seduction’, Plainmont Producteurs 2015

Madiran, ‘Charles de Batz’, Domaine Berthoumieu 2011
Madiran, ‘Vielles Vignes’, Chateau Peyros 2010
Madiron, ‘1907’, Plainmont Producteurs 2010

Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, ‘Les Jardins’, Chateau Bouscasse 2012

To sum up the wines, quality, value and unique grapes combined with experimentation make these wines, whose vineyards border Bordeaux, the wines of the future.

Check with your local wine merchant or online for some of the wines that were sampled.

                                                     Master Sommelier Fred Dex

Philip.kampe@thewinehub.com
Philip S. Kampe

Saratoga Wine & Food Festival is this Weekend: Saptember 9th-11th by Philip S. Kampe

                                    2016  Saratoga Wine & Food Festival

This is year Sixteen (16) for the Saratoga Wine & Food Festival, a tradition whose quality of wines, spirits and food keeps getting better year by year. This years personalities include: Anne Burrell, Marc Murphy, Josh Capon, Jasper Alexander, Chris Morris, Joshua Wesson and The Beekman Boys.

The three-day festival includes a variety of events from a Sunday, late morning ’Jazz Brunch’ hosted by Angelo’s Tavolo, Fish At 30 Lake; Prime at the Saratoga National and 677 Prime to tonights, ‘Fired Up!’ event, where a grill-off competition will take place. Local restaurants competing include: 15 Church; Ama Cocina; Sperry’s; Salt & Char; Fish At 30 Lake; Prime at Saratoga National and Primal: Your Local Butcher.

My favorite event, the ‘Grand Tasting’ takes place on Saturday from 1-4pm (VIP 12-4pm). The Grand Tasting focuses on hundreds of wines, spirits, beer and local and international culinary products including cheese, salami and a vast array of charcuterie.
Add 30 participating restaurants to the mix and you will have the time of your life. On top of all of the food and drinks, culinary demonstrations, a live auction and a show of luxury cars hosted by the Saratoga Automobile Museum will dot the lawn.

Tickets and information for all of the events can be purchased online at www.SaratogaWineandFood.com 

Events:
9/09 Fired Up! $85  (7-10pm)
9/10 Grand Tasting & Concours D’Elegance  $85 (1-4pm) VIP $175 (12-4pm)
9/11 In the Groove Jazz Brunch  $75  (11:30am-2:30pm)

           

         Preparing the 'Sabre Ceremony' is Sam Ramic, exhibitor and founder of  New Paltz's, WineWorldWide, Inc.

Ruca Malen Winery--The Ultimate Wine and Food Pairing Combinations From Chef Lucas Bustos and Winemaker Pablo Cuneo by Philip S. Kampe

        

    

    

    

Ruca Malen

Ruca Malen Winery is world famous for its development and success in creating a tasting menu concept at its in-house restaurant in Mendoza, Argentina. The goal of this project is to express the terroir in each of the elements that make up the experience of pairing Ruca Malen wines with the local cuisine. I have not visited the restaurant at the vineyard in Mendoza, which is open to the public for lunch, daily, but had the next best thing possible.

Chef Lucas Bustos and his staff flew into New York to host a traditional wine pairing dinner in the same fashion as the restaurant of Bodega Ruca Malen does in Argentina.

I was fortunate enough to receive an invite to this special occasion, which took place at a private kitchen and event space at The Kitchen Table, 132 Mulberry Street, smack in the middle of Little Italy and next to Umberto’s restaurant, known to our family for their signature dish of Linguini with white clam sauce, made, according to my wife, the same way as her Neapolitan mother made fifty years ago.
Enough said….

As I entered the beautiful and aromatic space, I was immediately handed a large glass of 2015 Ruca Malen Yauquen Torrontes, a white, floral wine from the Salta region, in northwest Argentina. The area is known for Torrontes, a wine that that is made in stainless steel tanks and is quite forward and pronounced in flavor. My glass was fresh and crisp with just the perfect balance of tropical fruit, enough to make one consider the wine as an aperitif.

Later in the evening, this wine was served with a lemon, chili, herb marinated yellow squash appetizer. The elements of acidity in the dish balanced perfectly with the make-up of the chilled wine.

Winemaker Pablo Cuneo said that the wines for the dinner were picked specifically to pair with the foods that represent our country of Argentina. He alluded to the fact that the winery was founded in 1999 by two French men. The idea was to produce world class wines. Pablo added that the right place for the wine is the table. One of our goals is to find some similarities with the wine and food. A second goal is to look for a balance with the wine and the food. The acid of the wine balances the fats from the dishes. And thirdly, we look for density in the wine. These are our three goals as a company and mine as the winemaker.  

Chef Lucas added that the restaurant at the vineyard was conceived in 2004. I am considered a pioneer in the industry.  Pairing the local cuisine with the wine has now been followed by my peers worldwide.

Winemaker Pablo added that the name Ruca Malen was made-up by the French vineyard founders. He said, Ruca means house and Malen means young lady. We were asked why did the Frenchmen choose that name? 

Chef Lucas asked us to pretend that for tonight’s dinner, we will be in Argentina. Lucas stressed that ‘We don’t go to farm and table, since farm and table are in the same place.’ Usually we share food and wine with friends. Imagine that this is 400 years ago. The food we will eat for dinner focuses on the history of the Argentinean.

Chef Lucas Bustos and Winemaker for Ruca Malen, Pablo Cuneo, food and wine pairing dinner menu:

Dish: Carob dough stuffed with Malbec braised rabbit in a nut and potato emulsion

Wine: Yauquen Malbec 2014 Red (Mendoza), juicy and velvety on the palate ($13)
Pairing: The sweetness of the carob pairs effectively with the cherry, fruity, sweet overtones of the balanced wine/

Dish: Cured and olive oil marinated Angus beef on top of a bean salad and Malbec glazed sauce.
Wine: Reserva Malbec 2014 ($19) (Diaguitas, La Rioja) Aged 12 months in oak barrels, both French (85%)  and American (15%)
Pairing: The oily notes and fleshy textures in the dish are balanced by the tannins in the wine. The creaminess of the stew tastes velvety due to the wines innate characteristics.

Dish: Curanto-style braised osso buco with roasted vegetables. Curranto cooking is a technique of underground cooking that involves hot stones.
Wine: Reserva Petit Verdot 2013 ($19) ( Mapuchas) A well balanced, aromatic, complex wine aged for 12 months in French (80%) and American (20%) oak.
Pairing: The balsamic elements of the wine are a perfect match for the unusual texture of the braised meat and smokiness of the vegetables.

Dish: Grilled filet mignon with a smoked carrot puree, quinoa and sweet corn.
Wine: Kinien da Don Raul 2011 ($75) ( Patagonia) 65% Malbec, 15% Petit Verdot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah. Aged,18 months in French (90%) and American (10%) oak.
Pairing: This full-bodied, complex, dark fruit oriented wine matches perfectly with the juicy, flavorful steak.

Dish: Dulce de leche cake with orange sauce and vanilla ice cream.
Wine: Ruca Malen Brut made with 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Twelve months of leese contact makes this traditional methode sparkling wine a real contender.
Pairing: The acidity in this dessert balances with the finesse of the wine.

History of the vineyard as told by Winemaker Pablo Cuneo:
The vineyard was founded in 1998 by two Frenchman, Jay Pierre Thibaud and Jacques Louis de Montdembert. Pablo Cuneo, already well known internationally, was hired as their winemaker. His job, as winemaker, was to balance French winemaking techniques with Argentine character. The wines must be elegant enough to pair with the food that is inspired by the rich culture of Mendoza. Lucas Bustos was hired as chef. The rest is history.
In 2015 Ruca Malen was acquired by Molinos Rio de la Plata, Argentina’s most prominent food and beverage broker. Their vision remains the same as the founders, Jean Pierre and Jacques Louis.

Philip S. Kampe

Philip.kampe@thewinehub.com

            

      

Arneis--A 'Trendy Grape' For All Seasons by Philip S. Kampe

                                     

                                              Arneis: A Trendy Grape for All Seasons

In the last decade, the presence of wine at the bar scene has grown by leaps and bounds.  Each year a new wave of young wine consumers joins the ranks of the ever expanding wine market. With so many new wine drinkers, bartenders have become the wine director of their establishments. The bartender is the ‘go to’ person for recommendations. Bartenders need to know what the next wine trend will be. One year, Prosecco was the trend, next came Moscato, then Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and now Rose. What is next?

Enter, Aldo Zaninotto, wine director of Chicago’s popular Osteria Langhe restaurant. If it were up to Aldo, the new wine trend would be Arneis, a little known white grape that is grown in northern Italy’s Piedmont province.

Aldo says, “Arneis is known as the ‘little rascal’ in Piedmontese dialect, because the grape is so hard to cultivate. It is one of the most important white varietals among the DOCG whites in Langhe. With its profile of minerality, floral notes and orchard fruits, Arneis is a perfect white wine for all seasons. Arneis is very food friendly.  I carry numerous styles of Arneis on my wine list at Osteria Langhe, including Vietti (by the glass), Bruno Giacosa, Careglio, Recit, Giacomo Fenocchio, Cecu, Marchesi di Barolo, Damliano and Ceretto. The customer response for Arneis has only been extremely positive, making new fans everyday. Arneis sales are near the top of my white wine list. If someone tells me they drink Pinot Grigio, chances are they like drier wines, like Arneis. I don’t carry Pinot Grigio anymore, as Arneis is the perfect fit on any wine list. It has satisfied my customers’ curiosity about trendy wines. If you or your wine program are searching for a new grape, Arneis is the answer.”

As a wine writer and an experienced wine taster and judge, I agree with Aldo.

Arneis has satisfied our summer visitors who expect a Sauvignon Blanc or a Vinho Verde with the array of seafood that we serve to our house guests. Since I grew up in New Orleans and had beer with seafood on most occasions, a cold glass of Arneis has filled that void. (Yes, an old dog can learn new tricks)

Constance Chamberlain, co-founder of Wine & Company represents Arneis. If you have questions or need recommendations, feel free to contact her at: www.wineandcollc.com

Aldo Zaninotto can be reached at: www.osterialanghe.com

Arneis, technically, has been known as: Barolo Bianco, Nebbiollo Bianco, Bianchetta and Bianchetto.
The grapes history goes back to the 1400's. It was found in the Roero region. Traditionally, the grape was used as a blending grape to soften the tannins of the red Nebbiolo varietal. Recognition for the Arneis grape began quite recently, in the 1980's.

Drinking Arneis within the first two to three is still the mantra.yet, aging is possible, thanks to the new breed of winemakers.

The grape has a medium body and acidity. Minerality can be found in its sour apple and grapefruit characteristics.

Roero Arneis DOCG is considered the best region for Arneis, followed closely by Langhe.

Philip S. Kampe

philip.kampe@thewinehub.com