View of Rome
The first time I visited Rome,
I was 19 years old. I went to study for a month, hoping to begin to learn
the language, as well as take in the beauty of this famous city. Both my
parents were born in Italy:
my mother on the island of Capri, off Naples, and
my dad in the outskirts of Genoa.
But neither had returned to their country, and I was very interested in
learning something more about my background.
That month in Rome,
and the two weeks afterward when my parents picked me up and took me to their
birthplaces, changed me. (My decision to visit Italy prompted my parents to go
back as well.) First, the excitement of being 19 in Rome with American friends, studying and free
to discover this complex city was really a step in moving away from the
protection of living at home. I grew up in Queens
and went to college in NYC, but back then I had lived a pretty sheltered life.
Going to Rome was the most exciting thing I had
ever done, beating out Spring Break in Ft. Lauderdale
by a long shot!
And, of course, I fell in love with Rome.
How could I not? The history, the art, the fountains, the hills, the ruins, the
food, the beach, the Italian men! It was mind boggling that people lived
in houses that were ancient. That beauty was everywhere, on such a grand
scale, and in so many different ways. And, to top it all off, this was MY
heritage.
My heart would beat faster when sitting in the Piazza Navona,
thinking it was the most beautiful square in the world with the most beautiful
fountains in the world. I had never fallen in love with a place before,
but I fell hard for Rome.
It made my heart beat faster. A place, a city, had never quite done
that.
I loved Manhattan,
but it was a place I knew and chose and understood.
Rome was an adventure because it shook me up
- it said look at me, know me, I am part of your history and I welcome
you.
I had been seduced.
How wonderful was that month seeing everything we could in Rome, falling in
love with Bernini, with the Sistene Chapel, the Coliseum, the Pantheon, the
Spanish Steps, the Villa Borgese, the Capitoline. The Trevi fountain
thrilled, the Churches inspired, the streets charmed. And, the food was
so wonderful, so familiar, like mom's home cooking. And the gelato was
exceptional, a new experience and a delight.
I will never forget that first trip to Rome -
the beginning of a love affair with the city and with Italy. I will never forget
the shock of being there, the emotions it aroused and the world it opened up to
me. I have returned to Italy
many times and I am always thrilled to be there.
Recently,
I returned on a short trip to Rome on a tour put together by PromaRoma, a
division of the Chamber of Commerce of Rome. It was to be an educational tour
to remind us of what Rome
has to offer. And, as tour guides, PromaRoma chose Antonio Rinaldini and
Paolo Meschini of Roam Around Rome (www.roamaroundrome.com), who develop
customized tours for very small groups who are discerning tourists and want to
discover Rome
and her secrets.
From the very first moments, I realized this would be a special tour.
Because Antonio and Paola were passionate about Rome,
choosing to live there from other areas of Italy. And because they were
so knowledgeable about Rome,
its architecture, its history and its art. Their desire is to share their
passion for Rome
and they were very successful. We saw many things in Rome in four days and many of them I had seen
before. But not with their eyes, their perspective, their passion.
So, here are some ideas for you to consider for a Spring visit to Rome. Spring is an ideal
time to go, before the tourists invade en masse, and before the temperatures
rise too much. Spring is for lovers, too, and it’s a perfect time for long
walks, taking in the art of the city and allowing yourself to start a love
affair with Roma.
In a city over 2700 years old, with magnificent art everywhere, I always
like to find a hidden place to view the city and grab a delicious bite. One of
our favorite places in Rome
is the Capitoline Museums, which were traced to 1471 when Pope Sixtus IV
donated a group of bronze statues to the People of Rome. The steps leading up
to the museum are very wide and dramatic, and getting to the top lets you see Rome from a beautiful perch. In
Piazzale Caffarelli,4, with external access from the steps of the Capitol, on
the top floor of the building in which the Capitoline Museums are contained, is
Terrazza Caffarelli, From this Terrace, there are spectacular views of Rome,
and you can enjoy a pleasant lunch and some wine. Relais le Jardin manages this
space and does a wonderful job. Having a glass of Prosecco and taking in this
view of Rome,
is a wonderful way to start your Roman adventure!
View from Terrazza Caffarelli
Philip and Maria Toasting Rome, Terrazza Caffarelli
Another wonderful place to visit is Palazzo Valentini, originally
commissioned to be built in 1585 by Cardinal Michele Bonelli, a nephew of Pope
Pius V. Over many years, this building underwent renovations, demolitions and
additions.
It once housed an Imperial Library
with about 24,000 volumes. It was also a private theatre and housed famous musicians
from 1705-1713.
The whole building was
purchased in 1827 by a Prussian banker Vincenzo Valentini, who lived in it as
his home and thereby gave it his name.
What’s amazing about visiting this Palazzo is that there are archaeological
remains of ancient Roman houses beneath it. A team of art historians,
archaeologists and architects, working for the Provincial Administration, has
created a most outstanding reconstruction of ancient Rome.
It is lit from below, has a terrific sound track explaining all that is
below, and even has visual suggestions as to what was built so many years ago.
Walking on clear resin floors, in dim light, makes this experience a very
dramatic one, highlighting how the Romans lived. If you go, you will never
forget the experience.
Of course, visiting Rome
always includes a walk on the Via Veneto, the city’s most famous street, made
famous by Fellini’s “La Dolce Vita” and his other movies. From the Piazza
Barberini to Porta Pinciana, this road is charming and full of cafes, stores
and history.
An ideal place to stop for
a glass of wine, or for a cappuccino! If you are interested in stopping, try
Harry’s Bar, an establishment famous for its welcome to all. It is at Via
Vittorio Veneto,
150 (
www.harrysbar.it) and was also made
famous in “La Dolce Vita.” Try its signature drink, the Bellini, a fusion of
fresh peach juice and champagne (about $25US).
A truly Roman experience!
Harry's Bar on Via Veneto
No visit to Rome can leave out the Piazza
Navona, my favorite square in Rome.
This piazza dates back to 90 A.D. and was originally Emperor Domitian’s
stadium, with a capacity of over 30,000 spectators. Centuries later, it hosted
carousels, competitions,and parades. Its concave pavement was flooded with
water to turn it into a large pool! Buildings and churches frame the piazza,
and surround three magnificent fountains.
Fontana dei Fiumi, by Bernini
My favorite is Fontana dei Fiumi by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, It represents the
major rivers in the world and is an unforgettable piece of art. Bernini’s art
is all over Rome,
and you will become very familiar with him as you walk the city.
He was a very famous and revered Baroque
architect of the 17
th century.
The other famous fountain that is most visited in Rome is the Fontana di Trevi, made famous by
Anita Ekberg wading in its waters at night in “La Dolce Vita”.
It took Nicola Salvi 30 years to mold this
complex structure and it was completed in 1762.
It has statues, Corinthian columns and sea-inspired sculptures that
glorifies the Baroque shapes of those times.
The tradition calls for visitors to throw a coin in the fountain to
ensure a return visit!
Fontana di Trevi
As the weather warms, a visit to the Villa Borghese gardens and its museum
is a must! While many say the best museum in Rome is the city itself, the Villa Borghese
is worth a visit. You must reserve tickets to see its 20 rooms of art and
sculpture, and it will be worth planning ahead.
Here you will see many antiquities of the Renaissance and the beginnings
of the Baroque era, and many Bernini works.
Reservations keep the crowds down, allowing you to really take in this
magnificent art. The park include 226 acres of gardens, paths filled with
statues, fountains, theatres and lakes. Plan to rent a bike and spend a few
hours enjoying this tranquil art-filled park.
And look for the Cinema Dei Piccoli, the smallest movie theatre for
bambinos you have ever seen!
A Walk in Villa Borghese Gardens
Paolo and Philip in Villa Borghese Gardens
A Fountain in Villa Borghese Gardens
Villa Borgese Museum
Philip and Maria at Cinema Dei Piccoli
If you want to leave the urban center of Rome, you can visit a vineyard – the only one
within city limits, and taste their delicious wines, and even stay at their
guesthouse.
Visit Gelso Della Valchetta
(
www.gelsodellavalchetts.com).
This is a new vineyard, planted in 1997 by the Caldani family.
It is situated in a valley in the Veio Park.
Their wines, Il Gelso and Lilium, are high
quality and amazing. As you drive up to the vineyard, you can spy the family
dogs, some big and white, others small, but all well-loved. They welcome you
into the farmhouse, where you can sample the wines and taste some Roman dishes,
homemade by Flaminia Caldoni herself! They are located at Via Formeliese
173/c,00123 Roma. Call ahead to set up a tasting. (+39 3497605946).
Welcome to Gelso Della Valchetta
The Farmhouse
The Vineyard
A Wonderful Tasting at Gelso Della Valchetta
Back in the heart of Rome,
you cannot leave without seeing the Coliseum. This is a place to visit by day
AND by night. It was build by Emperor Vespasian in 72 AD and opened by his son
Titus in 80 AD. It was called “Amphitheatrum Flavlum.” It is the largest
amphitheatre in the world and is considered one of the greatest works of Roman
engineering
and architecture. The Coliseum
could hold up to 80,000 spectators and was used for gladiatorial contests and
other public spectacles, like animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous
battles, etc.
It was later used for
housing, workshops, as a quarry, housing for a religious order. Though much of
it has been destroyed by earthquakes and stone robbers, it remains an iconic
symbol of Imperial Rome. It is deemed World Heritage Site by UNESCO and is one
of the most visited sites in the world.
One View of the Coliseum
Philip at the Coliseum
These are some ideas for you as you plan your Spring trip to Roma. Happy Travels!!
Maria Reveley
Maria.Kampe@TheWineHub.com
