Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Take Berenice Lurton's "Sauternes Challenge", owner of Chateau Climens, Grand Vin de Sauternes by Candela Prol

                                                                Berenice Lurton
Sure, I can write about the great food I recently had at New York’s Café Bouled with Berenice Lurton, owner of Chateau Climens, producer of 1er Cru Barsac.
I could explain how well her Sauternes pair with just about any dish on earth, especially those at our ‘All Sauternes’ luncheon.
I could tell you that Berenice Lurton picked out the food and stacked the deck in her favor.
I could tell you a lot, but, I won’t.
I will just share the facts with you and you decide why the gamble Berenice Lurton chose to go biodynamic will pay off and why her chosen menu at Café Bouled works.
Let’s get down to facts--- according to Berenice, all of her 1er Cru Barsac, Grand Vin de Sauternes wines pair favorably with a large variety of international foods from all menus of the world.

To prove that fact, our luncheon  menu was as varied as a menu with Sauternes could be.
The Menu:
Kombu Cured Tuna Tartare, with fried ginger, seaweed and yogarashi crisp miso dressing.
Fall Squash Veloute with pain d’epices croutons and celery leaves.
Wild Mushroom Risotto with parmesan broth, fine herbs and black truffle butter.
Cabbage Wrapped Monkfish with butternut squash, bacon, hen of the woods, whole grain mustard and jus.
Glazed Duck Breast with caramelized parsnips, brussel sprouts, honey crisp apples and wild rice.
Korean Glazed Pork Belly with braised collard greens, steamed rice, gochujang pepper and daikon radish.
The main courses were followed by a Cheese Course and Fall Spiced Panna Cotta with quince compote, flax biscuit and honey anise ice cream.

The Sauternes:
Cypres de Climens 2009, 2010
Chateau Climens 1989, 2002, 2005, 2008

The Result:
An overall ‘Above Average Approval Rating’ from some of the ‘World’s Best Palates’ at the luncheon: Dorothy Gaiter, Bill Marsano, Ed McCarthy and Morton Hochstein.

Add the Biodynamic direction that Chateau Climens is going to the high quality of the Grand Vin de Sauternes and you have enhanced the true rivalry between  Chateau d’Yquem and Chateau Climens as the World’s Premier Sauternes.

A little History:
* Chateau Climens has a long history in the Bordeaux region dating back to 1547.
* In 1955 the estate was purchased by Henri Gounouilhou, the third owner, and held until 1971.
* In 1971, Lucien Lurton of Chateau Brane Cantenac bought Chateau Climens.
* Starting in 1992, Lucien's daughter, Berenice Lurton began managing the estate.
* In 2012, Chateau Climens, known for practicing organic farming, began using biodynamic viticulture in the vineyards.
* Today, the 70 acre vineyard produces approximately 3,000 cases a year and is owned completely by Bernice Lurton.

The Wines:
The wines from Chateau Climens have ample acidity creating a crisp, elegant wine that is rich and well balanced. Acidity is the key element in sweet white wines. The wines show honeyed tropical notes with floral, vanilla and spice aromatics.
Chateau Climens Sauternes are not just for foie gras, but pair with a multitude of international dishes.

Please take Berenice's  'Sauterne Challenge' and create a complete meal serving only Sauternes wines.
Bernice Lurton and I would love to hear about your results!

Candela Prol

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